[NorCam]

IMO, a standard bore 010 block with 4 bolt main caps is worth $500-$800 with no significant numbers on the pad. Add a couple hundred to that if it has matching 2482 main caps and another $250 for a CE coded block with a good stamp. I paid $1250 for a std. bore CE block last year which seems to be the going rate these days. Add $$$ for NOS, and detract $$ for .030 and .060 over bores.

The same holds true for forged cranks which can run $250-$500 for an 1182 steel crank for a 350ci, and $700-$1200 for 1178 cranks for the 302ci. Of course...price varies on the crank journals being clean and polished versus cut mains and rod journals at .010 or .020 under. The pink rods typically run $250-$500 a set if they are decent and I've seen many NOS sets in around the $700 mark. I don't put much value on used pistons unless they are part of a low mile engine that has never been apart. NOS slugs don't really excite me either since most are found in standard bore and it's not often you can use them unless you have an NOS block. In most cases, I'd simply buy a new set of Speed Pro .030+ forged pistons & rings, and resize the bores to match the pistons when rebuilding the short block.

If a short block is intact with all the right internal parts for a DZ302 build then the following applies to factoring in a fair market resale cost. An original DZ stamped block in standard bore but needing rebuilt is usually worth $2000-$3000 depending on the date stamp and how bad somebody really wants to buy it. Complete with correct crank, rods and pistons you can add another $1000 to the block for standard bores in decent shape. If it all needs to come apart and be rebuilt then perhaps take $500 away from the combined cost. If the short block includes the factory windage tray, original pan, AOR 8" timing cover and 7708 balancer, you can add another $750 to $1000 to the combined cost of the short block, but again it really depends on the overall condition.

With all of that being said, you'd now have a value of $4500-$5500 for a real cherry and complete short block, and you can deduct from there $$ based on how worn the bores and the reciprocating assembly really are. A good indicator is measuring the bores for wear and possibly pulling a few caps to check the bearings. The more complete with original parts, the better price that will be achieved. If the block has been decked, sleeved, rebuilt with mismatched parts, or has been re-stamped, then the value drops to that of the common used 350 which really isn't very much at all these days.

Now if it includes the correct 186 camel bump 2.02 heads with matching dates you can add another grand to the mix provided they haven't had the seats pounded out of them. Like anything, the more original and the better the condition the more to sum of the parts will be worth($$$ wise). The more it's been altered and/or abused, the lesser it will be worth. Hope that helps figure in some current day values.