Safest Rust Remover or Evapo-rust or ??

[Kurt S]

I've seen the results and I'm impressed. And a little confused.
I think they are pretty similar. Is there a preference for one product over the other?
Is there another product out there to consider?

http://safestrustremover.com/ and http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Thanks!

[njsteve]

I think they are the same thing. The developer of the safestrustremover failed to patent the formula worried that his competitors would just read the patent and copy it. Which is exactly what they did, just by examining the solution and reverse engineering the formula. No patent infringement to enforce now, in order protect his discovery. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif

[marxjunk]

i like CLR..i use both..but if its delicate..i use CLR with good results...

[SS427]

I just wish they would reduce the cost. I need the 55 gal drum size and for basically just water (with a chemical that puts the PH where needed) it is VERY expensive.

[Lynn]

Seems like someone at the garagejournal forum posted a formula for rust remover. IIRC (big IF) it was mostly vinegar and salt??

There is also a thread over there about and industrial size de ruster that is home made.

One of those might provide a viable alternative.

[Canuck]

I have used SafeRustRemover, ordered the 5 gallon size, waited 3 months and received the 2. 1 gallon jugs. Appartantly this is concentrate to add with water.
The Canadian distributor sucks.
Have used Evaporust as well.

Both work fine.

Also used Malt vinegar, it works fantastic, you just have to get over the urge eat french fries.

Results with Malt vinegar:

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll49/paulolds/Chrysler%20300F/Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/IMG_0052.jpg (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/paulolds/media/Chrysler%20300F/Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/IMG_0052.jpg.html)

[70 copo]

I have used both. I did an entire car with safest rust remover 10 years ago. It is the 1993 Pace car on the restorations page. Results were acceptable.

[Billohio]

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics/usergals/2014/08/full-13064-15205-img_20130502_102810_542.jpg
I have only used Evaporust. I have found a lot of paint markings that I would have never found. End of my axles were dingy so I set them in the bucket over night and this appeared.

[Tracker1]

I have used both, I think they're the same. My experience with both is they work fantastic for lightly rusted items dunked overnight or showered using the njsteve patented kiddy pool and pump. I stress light rust. If you have a rearend housing or chassis with heavy scale, forget it. It takes too much product, provides mediocre results and will just put a dent in your wallet. Pricey stuff.

Join me at Ches's Paul? <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif

[JRSully]

apple cider vinegar, gives very nice results

[Kurt S]

I didn't realize that vinegar (acetic acid) would work too. btw, CLR is a mix with 2 different acids.
Thanks guys!

[Woj]

I have used metal rescue with very good results. I needed a large quantity, 10 gallons, and was able to obtain it through Home Depot. The stuff was delivered to my door for less than $200. I used it to de-rust some survivor 69 SS rims. I bought a 30 gallon plastic trash can, put in one rim at a time and let the chemical go to work. I didn't take any before and after photos though, but I was very satisfied with the result. I ended up using a cheapo $7 pond pump from Harbor Freight to move the fluid around. That seemed to improve the results. The good thing about this stuff is that it can be re-used.

Phil Woj.

[70 copo]

For reuse I have found that it is better to screen the bigger rust particles and flakes out of the liquid prior to storage.

[firstgenaddict]

Evaporust is what I have used with excellent results in saving original phosphate coatings on hood hinges and hood latches, also works to remove the rust on Ebrake pedal assys very well.


The Original Paint Black Vintage Certified RS/Z had evaporust used extensively, I too believe it is the same as safest rust remover.

[SS427]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 70 copo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For reuse I have found that it is better to screen the bigger rust particles and flakes out of the liquid prior to storage. </div></div>

Thats a must! If you do not screen out the rust particles that have fallen into the mixture the product continues to work and will break down the PH even sooner. Same goes for getting your parts as clean as possible before you soak them.

[Stefano]

We use evaporust on a regular basis, to clean light surface rust on parts and sheet metal.

[302moz]

I have used evaporust for over two years. Works excellent.Purchased a 55 gallon drum over a year ago and its still going strong.The big thing is to keep grease/oil out of it and do a quick sand blast before. It has had engine blocks,heads,rear ends,sheet metal,steering boxes.rotors,intakes in it.I think every piece of my ta has been it at one time. John

[Verne_Frantz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SS427</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 70 copo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For reuse I have found that it is better to screen the bigger rust particles and flakes out of the liquid prior to storage. </div></div>

Thats a must! If you do not screen out the rust particles that have fallen into the mixture the product continues to work and will break down the PH even sooner. Same goes for getting your parts as clean as possible before you soak them. </div></div>

I think Rick's message is the key. I've used it but if I leave it sit after one use, it goes to pot on it's own. That's a major waste of money. Once it turns black, it's no good at all.

Verne <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif

[bcmiller]

There are several things that can be used, and I have tried everything mentioned. Depends on what you are using it on as to what will give the best results.

[70 copo]

Temperature is something you need to closely watch. Cold solution will not be very effective short term while warm solution works pretty fast.

[Kurt S]

I got some at Harbor Freight.
I did some tools/wood planes with it. I liked the results. Did it in the kitchen to keep the temp up. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif

How do you know when the solution is done? By color?

Thanks!

[70 copo]

Kurt

The key is not to raise the ph.

Here is everything you want to know: www.evaporust.com/Evapo-Rustppt_files/Evapo-Rustppt.ppt (http://www.evaporust.com/Evapo-Rustppt_files/Evapo-Rustppt.ppt)

[Kurt S]

The ppt didn't actually mention it. But I found it on their homepage:
One gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of steel, so a little bit goes a long way. Evapo-Rust® will turn black once it is spent.

[70 copo]

That's right. In my experience it is way easier to screw up the PH first without a color change. Either way it will quit working.

[Kurt S]

How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it.

[Verne_Frantz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kurt S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it. </div></div>

I'd be interested in knowing that too because I've used it a lot and it turns brown, then black in no time for me. My parts are all degreased when I dunk them. It gets expensive! I've also noticed that if you leave a part in it too long, it will re-deposit a dark gary oxide back ONTO the part. IT washes right off with something like Spray-9 though.

Verne <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/flag.gif

[68camaroz28]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Verne_Frantz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kurt S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it. </div></div>

I'd be interested in knowing that too because I've used it a lot and it turns brown, then black in no time for me. My parts are all degreased when I dunk them. It gets expensive! I've also noticed that if you leave a part in it too long, it will re-deposit a dark gary oxide back ONTO the part. IT washes right off with something like Spray-9 though.

Verne <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/flag.gif </div></div>
I've been using evapo-rust for several years and agree the solution after several uses eventually turns black. When new or lightly used it seems to leave no film (darkening) but once it starts to turn a darker color if parts are left in too long especially castings it has a tendency to darken the material. Cannot beat it for ease of working. Back several years ago I placed my driveshaft in a capped 5' length of 4&quot; PVC plastic pipe and added 2 gallons which completed engulfed the driveshaft. After a day I could clearly see paint stripes and painted yokes not noticed prior.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z117/1-2-b-67L89/68%20Camaro%20Z28/100_5811.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/1-2-b-67L89/media/68%20Camaro%20Z28/100_5811.jpg.html)

[70 copo]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kurt S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it. </div></div>


If you are doing a big job you will need to add water due to evaporation of the material. Big jobs require a shower bath with constant flow. For small jobs (up to drive shaft dipping) straight product is usually fine (if you cover it) since you can usually control the evaporation rate that way.

Now here is the difference between Evapo rust and Safest rust remover:

The evaporation rate on Evapo-rust is chemically unacceptable with a shower bath that is why they recommend not to use it in a shower. look at the FAQ's for Evapo rust Here: http://www.evapo-rust.com/product-info/

The evaporation rate with Safest rust remover is more controllable and is acceptable with a shower bath.

http://safestrustremover.com/howto.asp

In my experience with both products a shower bath always beats immersion in time of use and effectiveness especially on pitted surfaces.

---------------------------------------

Now that we are on the same page with the differences with both products on to the question:

Why will PH screw up the product? <span style="font-weight: bold"> Never add tap water until you have verified the PH -- WHY?</span>

http://www.atsenvironmental.com/residential/water/contaminants/list/ph-levels

Neither company will not tell you not to use tap water because they want you to buy more product. <span style="text-decoration: underline">Always maintain a PH neutral chemical for Maximum product life.</span>

I always use distilled water for any addition as make up for evaporation. http://www.okpure.com/article_005en.html

[70 copo]

Here is the result of the dip method on a 1993 Camaro Drive Shaft using safest rust remover.

[70 copo]

Sainte-Thérèse Assembly had a QA area called the &quot;Knot hole&quot; where the entire car went through a series of QA/QC checks at the factory. One of these checks was a hi pressure water bath conducted after the drive train was installed. This test checked for water in any places where it would have been a contaminant in normal operation. The down side is the resultant flash rust on every bare metal part.

I wanted to return the chassis to a point prior to the water bath in appearance.

I carefully removed the brake line tag first and draped the rest.

Using safest rust remover as a shower bath:

[earntaz]

I just found some of this stuff -- got it at Advance Auto ... WOW!! Tried it on some brackets and works as advertised.

[firstgenaddict]

Back in 2006 I demonstrated the use of Evaporust to refresh the phosphate and zinc coatings on the unrestored black 69 RS/Z, when we went to the 2007 Camaro Nationals and had it vintage certified Steve Shauger commented that the platings were some of the nicest surviving platings he had seen.

Evaporust and cosmoline...

[sixt9rsx33]

This is after using Evap o rust on the Gold RS Z28. I continued to dip the suspension parts and the original paint daubs appeared. I put the drive shaft in a pvc pipe filled it full of ER and the original paint marks appeared.