Hey Rick,

Figured you’ve done a “few” of these before. Nice puzzle huh? Bruce H. from AK contacted me and suggested the same method of coaxing the cover from the field assembly. I will give that a go this p.m. Another fellow may have a more full-proof method that I will let you know of later. Thanks for your pix and words of wisdom!

Made some head way in separating the case from the motor innards. I used the methods that Rick and Bruce H. suggested using a punch and it worked well. It is slow going but does the trick. You tap on one side for a couple of times and then change to the other side otherwise it will cock the motor to the case. Only thing I changed was that I dropped a washer down into the bottom of the motor case and maneuvered it to each of the two holes at the bottom. It gave me a solid piece to hammer my punch against and diffuse the energy so as not to distort the bottom of case. Thanks all for the VERY helpful input!

Wiper motor disassembly
 

Way to go Sam nothing like thinking out side the box, that’s how we have have to do the most challenging processes that the factory engineers made simple for the suppliers , well maybe, lol
Bruce

Hey thanks Bruce. I appreciate your help and encouragement. It was great catching up with you today.

Bruce is working on a neat (top secret) project that we should be able to coax him to share with us down the road. It will be worth the wait!! Other Bruce - stand by for great Member’s Ride....coming soon!

We use heat to obtain thermal expansion of the frame yoke in order to get some expansion & clearance to aide remove the laminated core from Submarine AC & DC motors. Gentile application of flameless heat source will work as a tip or trick.

JIM

Jim - sounds reasonable. Thanks

Ran into another snag: I am just about through dismantling everything and am stumped on how to remove this pin (shown in photo at 2 0’clock position). It appears to be held on by a washer-like piece. It is not a “C” or “E” clip. This pin pivots the lever on the other side of the housing (see 2nd photo, lower right corner) which actuates the washer pump.

Thanks,

That pin is pinched on and non removable to my knowledge. There is really no reason to remove it as that area can be cleaned with it still attached. Same if you have plated.

Sounds good. Thanks Rick

Ok, last question! how's about removal of the metal stanchion on the pump assembly that holds the electrical plug and wire winding)? It is held on with four prongs with the copper winding in between (see photo in this post). Played with it a bit and it is firmly in place. 2 of the prongs pivot into their holes the other 2 just push straight through.

Thanks

Those are a B!tch! You have to GENTLY pry 2 of the 4 prongs up so that you have play in the unit. I use a very small jeweler's cutter (shown) and gently pull them together. Once the cover plate is plated and you need to reinstall that solenoid, put it back in place and with a helper use a very small pin punch while resting the corner of the metal cage (be careful not to hit the windings) of the solenoid on a piece of steel and gently peen the little tabs back in place. You only get one shot at this as these can break very easily. After doing many of them I have had pretty good luck and seldom break them anymore.