The Supercar Registry - 1969 Camaro Sill Plates

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- - 1969 Camaro Sill Plates (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=170877)

I was going to restore my original sill plates. Grind off the rivets from the under-side, remove the emblem, remove any scratches and dents, polish the sill plates, and then attach the emblem with the rivets. Since the sill plates are anodized, I need a new plan.

I did not realize these were anodized. I figured you could just buff them back to life.

Learned something new!!

That is what I thought. It seems like there is enough information that says the sill plates were anodized.

You can remove the anodizing with the HD Oven cleaner.
Then you can polish them without them appearing splotchy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by firstgenaddict (Post 1583688)

I had believed the sheets were probably anodized prior to stamping, just like most zinc parts were plated as blank sheets and then stamped, same with the fuel tanks etc.

Bright dip anodized AFTER they were stamped.

Yes, they can be rehabbed w/out trying to have them reanodized. Plenty of time and basically it's a "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" type deal. The bright dip finish has a unique look...different from a stripped/sanded/polished/buffed look.

Does anyone have experience with or photos of the plates sold by HBC, and any idea how they compare to factory-fresh bright-dip anodized? I have read various past threads with comments that the HBC examples are “too shiny” but perhaps that’s actually a good match for the factory look?

HBC (Trim Parts) Reproduction Sill plates Side by Side

1968 (LOS) Origs compared to HBC (Trim Parts) current Reproductions

Lots of Detail differences, Still a Nice product.

You know it is a tough Call. Most 99.9% of the car show public would never understand the difference(s) or care. But I still want to restore my orig, tough cause my plating plant charges 270$ per Lot of plating. So it would be necessary to restore batches to make it economically viable. In the Past I have tried to Home (DIY) polish alum trim without post treatment (Clear Bright anodization) only to have the Alum part appearance be compromised with just general exposure. Even Attempts to Aerosol Can spray cleared alum jus looked strange.

Ref: MIL-DTL-5541, "Military Specification, Chemical Conversion Coatings on Aluminum and Aluminum Alloys" Type II: Addresses compositions containing no hexavalent chromium. This film typically appears to have no color (Having no color is described as "clear"). Class 1A: Provides maximum protection against corrosion, whether painted or unpainted. This is a relatively thick coating used as a final finish or pre-treatment to paint or powder coating.

*Apologies for the Large photos but these allow great detail views.

** Disregard the Mfr's Blue protective Film

JIM