Wow, that looks great!

Wonderful...thanks for sharing with us Rick!

I use a variety of sealers such as T9 Boe-Shield, Gibbs, Cosmoline, RPM, Slip Joint and several others depending on the part. It is not a cure all and has to be recoated from time to time or you will get flash rust.

Rick, great to see you at MCACN.

This is just amazing. Thank you for sharing and fantastic work.

Best,
Dave

Yenko-1969
 

Wow Rick, totally assume. I bet you and Annie smile the whole time you guys work on it. I caught that part about you not being able to wind it out. I'm sure Annie would be glad to show you. :haha: I was so excited to see you posted pictures. What fun you will have at NOCC.:drool:

Did you coat the brake calipers and steering box with anything?
They look good.

I sure hope you get to bring it to the Super Car Reunion next summer. You can drive it down the track without being hard on it, or let her drive it. Then ease it over to the museum for the show.

It will likely be the other way around. LOL Here she is driving her 68 COPO Nova up against her formally owned 69 ZL1 at SCR10 with the new owner Jeff Murphy at the wheel.

thanks for posting
looks like you are making good progress

Very Nice, keep the pictures coming.

Is there a word to describe "beyond superb"?

Since last posting we have worked virtually every night and all weekend in order to get the chassis completed for Jamie to mount the body on. In addition I decided to do the fuel tank.

There was no saving the original so we opted for second best which is the Spectra tank. The 70 Chevelles are almost identical with minor exceptions. The 69 tanks are not near as close but will have to do until or if I can locate an original that is in mint condition. Experience tells me that will not happen so this tank will have to do.

The only inspection mark I found on the original tank was the number "982" written in black grease pencil. I traced the original and replaced it on the new tank exactly as found. This number is normally in the top left corner of the buildsheet which unfortunately I do not have.

The reproduction pads you buy today for the tanks are nothing more than thick foam so I made my own laminated version like the originals using a slightly different product but with good results. The noise strips were made from heavy gauge roofing tar paper. I then purchased the stencil kit and screen printed it onto the tank. Very tedious work requiring some touch up.

The fuel vent tubes were original so I simply cleaned them up, inserted new foam filters and restored the original square tipped clamps. I found remnants of the old filter material in side the vent lines so using a heated bullet casing I hot cut new vent filters from foam from a garden tractor. After closer examination of the hose line bracket it looked to have been original phosphated so I re-phosphated my original, restored the screw and the rest of the electrical and hardware.

I worked all weekend on the rear KQ differential (already partially painted) to get it assembled, finish painting and detailed and finally installed it tonight. As you can see, I am trying to replicate what I found exactly as I found it will minor additions such as inspection marks I know were on the majority of cars but were not visible on this car.

The gears were dated 2 67, almost two years before the rear assembly but from what I could tell during disassembly the rear had never been apart. Seems like a stretch to me but that is what I found.

The pinion flange was restored with the inspection marks that were found. Yellow on the side of the flange and mauve on the end of the pinion.

The axle shafts we cleaned and the studs pressed out and restored. I then ever so slightly turned the face, back and edge of the axle flanges after documenting the colored inspection marks I found. These were replaced exactly as found.

There were many yellow inspection marks on the differential and are what I normally always find on them. I should note first, this is a Baltimore car and more often then not the entire rear suspension as well as the crossmember is natural steel. Obviously there were minor pits in the steel axle tubes so I had to have bodywork done on them so instead of leaving them natural we had to replicate them in paint (Jamie did the initial bare steel color coat). I then went back and recolored some areas which consisted of one color for the tubes, another for the steel shock and spring brackets as well as the backing plates and rear differential cover all being different types of steel and/or manufacturing process necessitating slightly different colors. The center section was natural cast iron. All the colored inspection marks were replicated. I applied the yellow around all the plug welds then heated the plugs up to burn off the yellow around them and colored the plugs to replicated fresh welds. All the welds on the differential and crossmember were replicated to look like fresh blued steel.

I also replicated the cold rolled steel tube welding joint and replaced them in their exact location that they were originally located in. I likely have over 40 hours just in the finish work on the outside of the differential housing, axles and brakes.

Ok so I am over restoring this car and am insanely anal, I get it.

Holy-Snappen-Ole-Snap—On-A-Vich.......

You are killing it dead!

Ryan W31

Here the rear diff is installed into the chassis and everything hooked up. I have seen the orange paint applied to the brake lines several times in the past (on 1970 cars) and found them on this car so I replicated them. All of the e-brake hardware and cables are original to the car and have been painstakingly restored back to original.

I also took the time over the weekend to install the trans into the chassis and attach all the peripherals onto it as well as finish off the simulated bare steel crossmember. I still have some inspection marks to add to the shifter but you get the idea.

I then added the car's exhaust manifolds onto the engine and painted the orange around the flanges to simulate a new engine with a little run time on it. The engine is painted with a custom mix single stage gun sprayed paint for durability and longevity.

Other than a few bumps and bruises she looks like a solid car. Hard to believe after resting in such a swampy environment.... Looking forward to its resurrection

I am starting to understand how many of my customers feel when having their cars restored. Not only the immense excitement but also the financial stress. Some of my friends have commented that it must really help that I own the company so restoring it is a lot cheaper. NOT!!!! I am very close to matching what my customers have invested in their restorations and I am far from being done nor have I included any of my labor though I am keeping track of every hour. This stuff can be incredibly expensive but if you want it done right that is what it takes.

The water the car was sitting in when found came from a torrential rain storm and broken garage door which allowed the leaves to flow in and plug the drain which happened two days before our arrival so all in all the only damage was due to 47 years of a non climate controlled garage. Thank God as this could have been a whole lot worse.

Just wonderful Rick. Lovin’ your pace and your updates. Keep going!!!!:laugh:

I even found this out on a small scale, each item has a tremendous cost, even if restored and assembled by the owner... I can’t even imagine going to this level...

I can’t wait to see this gem in person.

Thank goodness it is a 4 speed car!!! (No special reason)

Go Rick and Annie!!

Ryan W31

That's a beautiful 12 bolt!

Super nice Rick! X2 on the rearend but it certainly applies to E-V-E-R-Y thing. Agreed with the cost and I'm on the same path with my '69 L78 134 car. It bleeds the wallet but the green is replaced with a constant smile.
I did notice your brake distribution block was brass, that appears to be a mid '69 changover from the cast version.
Your thread has filled a couple voids of info. on my own resto so thanx for that!

Wow...just wow! Looking great Rick and Annie. Rick being anal, who knew? :eek2::smile:

Stunning -

Not to compare them to the 1970 Chevelle but I believe that to be a vendor supply thing as it is plant dependent on 70's from what I have seen and that was all year. Someone please correct me if I am wrong but I have many dated units of both styles to confirm this.

This particular Chevelle came with the brass unit and this is the very unit that was with the car after I restored it.

I think the 1969 Chevelles used a plastic fuel tank vent valve

they sell it has fitting 1968 to 1970 but some say it is 69 only?
I know they used to be hard to find so people would replace them with a home made unit.
it used to be hard to find but they repop it now

https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH28013/

Thanks for the input Joe. A ton of research has been done on this fuel surge plastic piece since I originally tore the car down. You are right that many of the 69 Chevelles used this piece but not all. This was determined by not only looking at some unrestored survivors but also really looking hard at our car as it was disassembled.

For starters, there are two different bracket designs. One for the 2 fuel vent line mounting and one for the plastic vent mounting (see photos). My bracket that is on my car will NOT fit over the plastic vent. If you mount my bracket on a car with the vent, the vent will simply try and flop over. Also, the ones with the vent had a foam material in the vent opening while mine had the same material within the hose itself. I have confirmed this with a couple of survivor COPO owners so I have no doubt this to be correct. I am a firm believer in "never say never" and believe that mine is the correct way for our car.

heres a pic of the sending unit you need Rick. for some reason I cant upload pics from my computer

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n2013/1055.png

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n2013/1055.png

I have to admit, I have never seen one like that before. More research needed I guess. I can only imagine how hard one of these will be to find. I cannot seem to get it to post here either due to it being an .png file.

thats the original from my car. have Sam send you a pic of the one on his black L78 its the same.

Our Yenko...
 

Incredible attention to detail...nothing short of amazing :biggthumpup:

-wilma

Talked to Rick over the phone once, quite a guy....

The ring and pinion in my orange 69 Yenko Camaro was also dated from 1967 as I understand it the first batch of ring and pinions were dated wrong.
Here is a picture of my L78 conv vent but it was a Kansas built car

I sent these photos to Rick last week or so...

oil pressure sending unit
 

Here are pics of my original sending unit from my 06c Baltimore built SS convertible. This is a gauge car. Note the original black paint and the date code.

Slob44's pictures are just as I described to you earlier today :)
100% correct :)

Dan

Incredible attention to detail, Rick. Thanks for taking the time to share all the photos and information.

Did you coat the brake calipers and steering box with anything?
They look good.

Mine has the plastic gas tank vent

1969 Chevelle Assembly manual page 148 shows the plastic vent as "tank-fuel vent surge"

My 1969 Assembly manual only shows the set up with the plastic vent

I only have a 1969 Assembly manual so I'm not sure about other years. It only shows the set up with the plastic vent.

I'm not sure if there was a late design change or something not shown in the 69 manual?

Sam, which email did you send them to? I Never got those but thanks for sharing.
Rick