One for front brakes, one for rear brakes with a balance bar between them, one for clutch.

Front and rear master are 2 separate small master cylinders, third is the clutch master. There’s a balance bar between the front and rear to set preload and brake pedal pressure. P

One new photo today.
Billy got the steering column all done using some leftover tubing and the finally correct steering wheel adapter. It took 3 try’s to find one I both liked and fit the old Superior 500 wheel. Next up is to finish the motor plates and the ladder bars, then install the housing floaters and his end is complete. Should have the car back within a couple of weeks. Pretty exciting. Now to find fiberglass rambler fenders lol.

That's a great picture of you in the drivers seat!

Thanks. Bill said this car would’ve been easier to do had I not been a 6’3” oaf with a size 13 foot. It’s a small car and while I fit in it just fine we joke I should’ve started with a bigger car! Lol.

Just ordered fiberglass fenders, a hood, and bumpers from showcars fiberglass in Ontario. Their reviews online are terrible. But they’re the only ones that list parts for this car and the guy says they’ll ship next week. I’ll update when something happens.

Small update for today.
Spent the last few days on breaks and lunches at work cleaning and prepping the Enderle hat. I’m still waiting for nozzles to finish the hat for now. But it’s all polished and cleaned. The butterflies were sticky when I bought it and all the O rings in the barrel valve had turned to plastic. Everything is all rebuild and nice now.
The chassis shop almost has the car done. I might be picking it up next week. I need to put new tires on my open trailer to go pick it up.

A friend of mine who’s an excellent tig welder helped me make the surge tank to eventually feed the Enderle hat. I’m waiting for the aluminum bungs to weld into for the main pump feed and returns.

Thanks for reading.

Small two photo update. The front motor plates are done and installed. And the housing sliders for the rear are tacked into place. I made plans to spend the day there Thursday and come home with the car. Now I have to get everything ready to bring it home. So once it’s home I’ll have a big update.

Big update time
Left for the shop at 3:45am to get there around 7am. Spent the morning building a driveshaft loop into the chassis rails, then added a few more tabs and built a loop into the main bar of the cage to use as a headrest mount eventually. By the time all that was done it was about 2pm.
Got the car back on the ground and loaded up on the trailer. Went to get a soda with Bill and then brought everything home.
Pictures show all of that stuff being built, the finished rear suspension. The finished motor plates and lateral mount. The finished steering column and pedal assembly. The car being put on the ground for the first time in 4 months, and the ride home. Once home I unloaded the car and all the spare parts to give my dad back his truck that I stole for the day.
This car has really turned into more than originally planned. But I’m ok with that. Thanks for reading and feel free to comment.

Spent some time yesterday just staring at the car listening to music. I changed the wheels and tires to make sure I’m still happy with how the car sits. I’m very happy with how the car sits.

Next order of business is radiator/fender mount, and shock mounting.

Had some time to work on the transmission on breaks and lunch. I’m waiting for new bearings to finish putting it together, after that it’ll get put away for whenever the car gets assembled.
First and second are proshifted
Third and fourth are faceplated
The tailshaft housing is mostly assembled and the speedo hole is plugged.

Otherwise I’m working on mounting the passenger seat and got a quote to have the whole car dry blasted in April or May after the spring rains end. Then the body and paintwork can begin. Luckily this car is pretty straight. But I hate the undercoating on the bottom of the car and since everything is coming out so nicely I might as well do the body right.

Haven’t had much time to work on the car lately. I may get a chance to play with it tomorrow. But I did end up with enough time on lunch today to get the transmission all back together. It went together fairly well, other than me not realizing I couldn’t follow the book due to the size of the 3rd gear lugs, I had to slide the countershaft back out of the way to clear the main shaft, which according to the book isn’t a problem with a factory iron T10.

I also marked what it is so if I die someone won’t just assume it’s a stock trans if they buy it at the estate sale lol.

Time for a small update on the gasser.
The cars sat for the last few weeks, I just kind of needed a small break from spending money on it. But now I’m recharged and ready to get after it a bit.

I have a media blaster coming the second half of June to blast the whole car inside and out so I can have a clean base to do all my other welding and fabrication on. I need to do the floors and a bunch of other panels to cover holes and build a partition wall to the trunk.

I have a list of small parts I’m going to try to find at Ford Carlisle in a couple of weeks. Fuel system stuff.

The Lakewood bellhousing is machined flat(it was only .005 out but my machinist says he always does these because he’s seen a lot of variation on them.

And I have all of my fiberglass parts that I’ll need to figure out how to mount. I have some time off in June so I’m going to try and spend a couple days assembling the long block so it can get stored away with the transmission until it’s ready to go in. So I should have some bigger updates coming up. Thanks for reading.

Nice, what type of cutter did your machinist use on that bell?

His exact words were “the dullest one I have. It cuts these the best.”

I need to get parts off my work bench. The easiest way to do that is to assemble the engine since I have most everything to build it. Specs are

Crower blower cam installed
Crank installed with arp main bolts torqued to 110
Weisco pistons .020 below the deck with Molnar connecting rods
Crank is .030/.030 and was a pain in the ass to find bearings for.
Ring gaps are .025 for the top ring and .027 for the middle ring.
Cam is installed straight up using a Rollmaster gold timing chain set.
Waiting for a friend to stop over and double check the cam to degree it in 100%.
Once I get the cam done I’ll get the front cover, oil pan, and heads on and actually have room on my workbenches for when the car gets blasted in a few weeks.

Small update today, spent a little time outside going over engine parts. I found that the Milodon head studs are way too long for the heads. After calling Milodon and sending pictures they agreed to swap them out for shorter studs. Hopefully I’ll have the long block together next week and start figuring out all the pulleys for the blower and alternator.
Also got the rocker studs in and torqued to get rid of a box that’s been in my way for months.

Small update today.
Stopped at an auto supply place and talked to the guy about primer and paint and decided to use them for all of my supplies for the car. I picked up epoxy primer and am ready to get started on the bodywork. This Saturday the car gets media blasted and then the real work begins.

Spent some time when I got home working on the engine. Checked intake centerline and degreed the cam in. Ended up retarding the cam 2 degrees to put it at 108ish. The cam card calls for 110 on the centerline and I’m figuring on 1-2 degrees being added by the valvetrain and timing chain stretch.

I then installed the front timing gear cover and began getting everything ready for the oil pan. The plate on the cover is for the electric water pump I’ll eventually have to order.

Enjoy the pictures both of the work and Marty helping me on the engine and the car.

Thanks for reading. I hope everyone reading this has a great day.