The Supercar Registry - No Going Back now. 70 LT-1

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- - No Going Back now. 70 LT-1 (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=178525)

I did Tim.

also say this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/25607399309...Bk9SR8qGppvcYw

Dated 2nd week of Dec 69. But no pictures of the actual carb.

He has two others at the same price, one April, and one May, 054, same date as mine.

I have reached out to him.

----It seems like you could have someone machine some stainless shims (washers) and never have to worry about corrosion again!....Bill S

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn (Post 1647919)

Holley Carb. Apparently, the original was swapped out somewhere along the way.

This one looks pretty grimy, but it ran perfectly. No hesitation; no flat spots.

Has correct metering plates. 6333 & 4519.

As you can see, this one is dated fourth week of May, 1970, so not original to my Feb 11 car.

I was told by a member here that this is actually a very desirable date code. Same carb was used on 1970 Z/28 with manual trans, and on the Yenko Deuce.

I will probably send it off to Eric and have it restored. Will then ask a ridiculous amount of money for it, and hope to parlay that into purchasing a Dec 69 or Jan 70 carb.

Seems in today's world of correct restoration prices, you could ask a ridiculous price as is for a survivor car, or let the new owner pay to restore it.

Except it really isn't a survivor. The PO didn't do a great job when he had it painted in 1983. Overspray on everything. Besides, I already have the body off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn (Post 1647958)

Except it really isn't a survivor. The PO didn't do a great job when he had it painted in 1983. Overspray on everything. Besides, I already have the body off.

The carburetor, Lynn, sell it as is to someone with a survivor car that needs that date.

Mitch said:

"Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Wondering where a clean frame could have come from unless a totaled car ? Have you had the replacement frame checked for square and plumb on a frame rack ?"

Hey Mitch: Given that I don't have a perfectly flat surface in my shop, are you aware of a procedure I could follow to insure my "new" frame isn't twisted? Even an 1/8 of an inch could cause me problems. I have it stripped down to nothing, and put casters on it so I could move it around the shop. Before I spend time and money making it look perfect, it would give me a lot of peace of mind to know it is true in every direction.

Any suggestions?

Lynn,

Do you have the 70 Chassis Service Manual? It has the frame datum in there. Regardless, you will need a perfectly level surface (preferably a surface plate or a frame machine)

Tim

You previously said you had measured diagonally in different locations and distances and they were all "square", which would be a very good indicator that the frame doesn't have a diamond. This can be done as a rolling chassis even without it being on a perfectly flat surface.
Twist, is the only other concern and that would need to be done on a flat surface and measured from that surface to the reference marks in Tim's pic of the side view.

Knowing it measures square, I would feel fairly comfortable that the frame doesn't have a twist, or if it does, it's so slight, that it isn't going to make a difference.
If you want a little assurance, I would block and shim the frame under the front and rear corners of the horizontal rails until they are level, front to back and side to side. Then you can use a level on the front horns, rear boxed enclosure and a short torpedo level on the front crossmember to judge if they are twisted.

No frame is perfect, hence the need to shim the body to fit the frame on a Corvette.
The ONLY way to know 100%, is to take it to a reputable frame shop, with a printout of the specs, and have them check it. You could do this after it is assembled to roller status and it may easier to transport that way.