A couple items worth noting. Found the key tag in between seat cushions, unfortunately it doesn't match car. Also an interior broadcast sheet turned up.

Not done with degreasing the engine, but getting started on firewall. First scrubbed with full strength Purple Power, then heavy compound followed by light compound and then wax. A lot of work!!

About this time I discovered NAPA Aluminum Brightener. What used to be 3-4 hours now became less than an hour! It cuts right through that desert hard pan grime. With progress moving along more quickly I worked from the firewall to the inner fenders and to the core support, removing components for thorough cleaning. Note the peeling paint on the RF fender inner jamb, more on that later.

Here are a couple of products I used to clean my engine compartment. Thought it may help.

At this point I've not yet pulled the fenders, just concentration on engine and under hood sheet metal components. An example is before and after of the original voltage regulator. All the smog system was removed and given the same treatment along with alternator, pulleys and all brackets and attending hardware. The Brightener works great on wiring harness also!

I really don't want to know how many hours I've spent cleaning!!

Thank you! Always ready to try something new. The Purple Power wouldn't touch this grime, but the product on the left looks interesting. - Bill W

I found you need to be care ful with the scotch pads as they can scratch. I have even used very fine steel wool. The citrus stuff and simple green works when you let it soak. In the end it will look much better!

Agreed!!
No scotchbrite or other abrasives used used here. Just Alum Brightener applied with microfiber cloths followed by wax. Also some items into the Evapo-Rust.

A few numbers:

The trim tag indicates a Fisher body date of 10B at the Fremont CA plant, the 95th Concours body for Fremont production.

The block casting number is blocked by the Powerglide kick down bracket but with a mirror I was able to verify 3892657, the correct block for all '67 327 until late '67 production.
Block casting date is H306, August 30 '66).
Stamp V0915EC, Flint September 15, EC = L30 327 A/T AIR.
61 Amp alternator 6J12, September 12 '66
0711 brake booster, power drum brake, Julian date 220
Barely visible is wiper motor yellow ink Julian date 206
Large rad tag is gone but small tag CF
Note chalk mark on RH cyl head

My Intension is to keep painting to bare minimum. Exception, the water pump. It had a parts store pump with a loose bearing. I ordered up a properly dated 608 pump from Bill Mock, it came bare cast, so I rattle-canned a fog of orange, thin enough to not appear fresh.

The timing cover has obviously been removed, so thinking the chain and nylon gear were replaced at some point.

----Bill,,,Is that master cylinder the original? I'm thinking that it doesn't resemble what I'm used to seeing as the car has power drum brakes, not disc brakes.....Bill S

You Sir, are correct! That eyesore parts store POS is still there because I haven't been able to locate a proper power drum Master.

By my October '67 dated parts book '67 drum brake Chevelle and Camaro, with or without power, use the same BS master, or can be stamped CT??

'67 Chevelle power drum masters use a different casting with bleeders, but still stamped BS, like the attached image.
My friendly NAPA guy ordered in four remans, and one is a casting mostly similar to original. My buddy Merl set it up in his mill and duplicated the machined pads followed by installation of dummy bleeders. I need to go upstairs and find a suitable cap and correct early, straight bail.

Still looking for a real, correct master though.