65 396 cam question
 

I just pulled the cam out of a 65 396 that I'm building. The rear cam bearing has a groove like it's supposed to, but the cam was just a standard appearing 67+ BBC cam. The cam does need the groove right?

I say the Cam needs to be grooved or your oil pressure will be low... Most cams today won't have the groove in them so they need to be matched to the bearing.

This may help...
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...engines.10360/

Dave
67 Nova Boy

Thanks Dave. I already read that. They always have a lot of good info over there. I guess I was just double checking. I've seen quite a bit of comments that said you only needed one or the other. I wasn't buying it...
I suspect this is why the motor was originally pulled. It's been sitting in the back of a friend's father's garage for the last 20 years while he's been on "vacation." It probably had low pressure from when they first started it after it was rebuilt. It doesn't have that many miles on it. You can still see the honing cross hatching.
I'm going to make sure the cam I replace it with gets the groove. It should be a pretty decent power plant for my 69 when I'm done. It's a decked and bored .060" 396 (408ci). It has it's original 206 heads that I'll do some work to. Couldn't beat it for $300 with a NAPA 5/8 ton engine stand.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4057/...37c226f6_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4258/...c7f75b6b_z.jpg

Dave,

Hard to pass up that deal! Good stand as well...My brother has a 66 "396" and had to groove the cam but didn't know about the Zinc being removed and wiped out 3 cams. {Flat tappet} Good luck with the "396 "or "408"

If the bearing is grooved then do the cam.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

Dave, which Distributor are you planning to run?
As memory serves me,make sure you use a '65-'66
Big Block Dist. With the blocked off lower groove.
With out that I believe your oil will by-pass the upper half
of the motor and there will be little if any oil to the lifters.
Just a hard lesson to forget.
Joe

Great value in that deal..I have one question..why are there 2 vacuum 'gizmos' on that Holley??

-wilma

speed governor- dump truck carb?

:eek2:

Sure looks that way to me.....

Sorry for the delay in getting back... After a little more research I decided I will definitely need to use a grooved cam if I run this block. The cam I removed has what I measured to be a ~.462/.488 lift cam.
Joe, Thanks for the heads up on the distributor. I had no idea about that. Luckily I have a 65 Chevelle dizzy in the garage. I'll have to check it out and make sure it's up to snuff to run again after probably 40 years.
That Holley was just something laying on top of the motor that got thrown in with the deal. It's a actually a production line 69 carb. I'd love to know exactly what it came off of. Probably a truck/dump truck like you guys mentioned.
I'm tempted to pull the pistons and throw them in a 72 408 short block that I was running last year. That block has flat tops. It might be a smarter way to do it so I don't have to mess with the cam, dizzy and oil filter conversion. I'll have to think about that for a few. Any input either way?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4047/...b06fa849_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4085/...1b1edf8f_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/...d53f2713_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4233/...589e7f22_z.jpg

That is a Ford GOV carb ... as mentioned from a truck or some sort of industrial engine ... TAZ

65 396 cm question
 

FYI,

D5TE BFA is a Ford / Motorcraft Carb model 2150 for a 1974 - 1980 Ford Truck F through N Series -600 -900 with 330 / 361 / 391 V-8 We used to put power valves and accelerator pumps in these all the time

Bill

So she must have come off a 79 Ford truck. I can't imagine it's worth anything, so in the barn she'll go. I can't throw out a brand new carb. Sue me lol...

Advertise it on CL or EB ... someone out there may need it ... TAZ

BB Chevy...
 

If you have a later block it might be a good choice to consider...the early heads have some limitations...but they will help keep the compression ratio up with those small bath tub chambers.

Ditch the carb and get a regular Holley VS unit...there are plenty of them around.

If you are looking for some professional guidance, I would call Eric Jackson at Vintage...he can provide excellent engine advise, parts and tech....and also help you in the carburetor dept...well worth the call.



-wilma

I will at some point. Too many irons in the fire right now...

Putting that carb on it wasn't a consideration. It was just laying on top of the motor when I bought it so they threw it in the deal. I have quite a few carbs in the garage. One is a nice Holley 3310 750cfm that I rebuilt last year for my other motor. She should do just fine. You're right about Eric though. Top notch. Thanks.
I'm leaning more towards the 72 block with the 65 heads. I just think all the little differences in the 65 block wouldn't be worth it for the extra compression that I'm now finding out I might not want. I'm not too worried about the limitations of the heads. I just want a good, reliable power plant that I can cruise and WILL get out of it's own way when I want it too.

396 build..
 

Your concerns about compression can be remedied by a good build plan for the engine that includes the proper cam shaft. Those old motors built up a lot of cylinder pressure with the low duration cams they were born with. Of course back then leaded hi-test gas was available...it's a little more involved today. Eric could make some good recommendations for engine build components and get you what you need.

Good luck...sounds like a neat project.

-wilma

Thanks Wilma. I was pretty shocked when I measured and verified the lift on the cam that came out of the 65 motor which appears to have basically stock specs. ~.462/.488. Far cry from the .625/.625 lift on my 494ci. I'm going to leave the compression at 9.25:1 to 9.5:1 and get the right cam for this motor. I think I'm on a good heading now.