Wiper motor disassembly
 

Some of you gurus out there let me in on the secret to separating the electric motor from the motor casing as seen in this photo. The Chevelle Chassis Service Manual has some great detail on the disassembly but nothing specific about my issue. I am in the process of restoring this wiper motor assembly and will be plating the casing. Thanks!

I'm thinking those cases were originally Cadmium plated as zinc is too shiny
and if you zinc without the clear chromate bath (shiny finish) I dont think the zinc will live.
Curious if you have a plan ???

And what about the copper bushing spot welded into bottom of that round "can"
How do you protect that or do you ?????

As I have a BOX full of those wiper motors, In interested in your process and results.

Good questions Chuck.

I have also heard that cad plating is the correct finish.

The copper bushing spot welded into the bottom (which is news to me) is what the armature sets in - right? I am not sure how to address this issue.

I did just read in the service manual that the “....end case and field assembly is serviced as a unit.” I hope that doesn’t mean it is connected together in some challenging way.

I believe the winding core is a slight press fit into the outer housing. If you can hang onto the winding and tap the outer case lip, it may separate.

I have restored many of this type. You need to use a puller to remove it. It can be reinstalled by pressing it back. A real hassle and not for the faint of heart. It is a cadmium finish.

Edit: This is in response to McCune:

OK, i like the sound of that. There are a bunch of resto shops that restore these correctly so there has to be a way to separate the case from the innards.

Thanks

Good info. Is a 2 or 3 prong/arm puller recommended? Any little tricks? What are you referring to as “ A real hassle...”? Using the puller or the whole resto process - which is quite involved with lots of moving parts. By the way my wiper assembly is fully operational and is mostly getting a cosmetic resto.

Thanks

You have to make a device that threads in to the bottom, and pushes it out against the device that grabs the bottom of the field support or shoe. Of course bend the tabs to remove the brush board and armature first.

I think I see where you are going. Any chance you have some pictures of your device in action? would like to talk about it if you get a chance: four 8 zero - two 1 6 - 3 two two 4.

Thanks!

They are a complete pain in the a$$ to restore. I have done them on almost every car we have restored. The two hatch marks you see on the side of the cover are on both sides and that was used to hold the housing tight to the windings. I have had fairly good success by running a small but stout rod through the bolt holes on the end of the housing and gently tapping on alternating sides of the windings on the bottom to gently push the them out but real care must be taken. For starters you can bend the windings if you get too aggressive and also if not very careful you can break the brush end of the windings if the armature is not held making it useless. I have never been able to get any type of a puller to work so would love to see and hear how others have done it.

Before you remove the winding and armature assembly from the main housing you also need to cut the two wires. That is a whole other subject. LOL

I used to restore these for mail in customers but due to the intense labor I cannot do them economically for the customer and still make any money so we only do them on our full restorations.

Hey Rick,

Figured you’ve done a “few” of these before. Nice puzzle huh? Bruce H. from AK contacted me and suggested the same method of coaxing the cover from the field assembly. I will give that a go this p.m. Another fellow may have a more full-proof method that I will let you know of later. Thanks for your pix and words of wisdom!

Made some head way in separating the case from the motor innards. I used the methods that Rick and Bruce H. suggested using a punch and it worked well. It is slow going but does the trick. You tap on one side for a couple of times and then change to the other side otherwise it will cock the motor to the case. Only thing I changed was that I dropped a washer down into the bottom of the motor case and maneuvered it to each of the two holes at the bottom. It gave me a solid piece to hammer my punch against and diffuse the energy so as not to distort the bottom of case. Thanks all for the VERY helpful input!

Wiper motor disassembly
 

Way to go Sam nothing like thinking out side the box, that’s how we have have to do the most challenging processes that the factory engineers made simple for the suppliers , well maybe, lol
Bruce

Hey thanks Bruce. I appreciate your help and encouragement. It was great catching up with you today.

Bruce is working on a neat (top secret) project that we should be able to coax him to share with us down the road. It will be worth the wait!! Other Bruce - stand by for great Member’s Ride....coming soon!

We use heat to obtain thermal expansion of the frame yoke in order to get some expansion & clearance to aide remove the laminated core from Submarine AC & DC motors. Gentile application of flameless heat source will work as a tip or trick.

JIM

Jim - sounds reasonable. Thanks

Ran into another snag: I am just about through dismantling everything and am stumped on how to remove this pin (shown in photo at 2 0’clock position). It appears to be held on by a washer-like piece. It is not a “C” or “E” clip. This pin pivots the lever on the other side of the housing (see 2nd photo, lower right corner) which actuates the washer pump.

Thanks,

That pin is pinched on and non removable to my knowledge. There is really no reason to remove it as that area can be cleaned with it still attached. Same if you have plated.

Sounds good. Thanks Rick

Ok, last question! how's about removal of the metal stanchion on the pump assembly that holds the electrical plug and wire winding)? It is held on with four prongs with the copper winding in between (see photo in this post). Played with it a bit and it is firmly in place. 2 of the prongs pivot into their holes the other 2 just push straight through.

Thanks

Those are a B!tch! You have to GENTLY pry 2 of the 4 prongs up so that you have play in the unit. I use a very small jeweler's cutter (shown) and gently pull them together. Once the cover plate is plated and you need to reinstall that solenoid, put it back in place and with a helper use a very small pin punch while resting the corner of the metal cage (be careful not to hit the windings) of the solenoid on a piece of steel and gently peen the little tabs back in place. You only get one shot at this as these can break very easily. After doing many of them I have had pretty good luck and seldom break them anymore.

Rick,

I know how busy you are and that your little secrets are hard earned. I am very appreciative of your insights. Having a pro weigh in on my amateur inquiries is a BIG positive. Another reason why THIS sYc site is just the best.

THANKS Rick!

You are hardly an amateur and I don't consider myself a pro. Just passionate about restoration work.

'spose we can quibble over the definition of a pro, but my "amateur" status is hard earned (toil to productive results ratio is one-sided....and not in the good way!) and when one of my projects ends up looking good, well, you know what they say about a blind pig!!!

He is one of the hands on pro's I know , he is being modest.

Mike