Distributor Cam
 

Can someone please tell me what's the difference between a 532CCW distributor cam and a 732CCW cam?

The 532 CCW advance slot is slightly longer allowing 2* more mechanical advance
Example:5* initial advance with weights in, 32* with the weights fully extended to their stop.
732 Counter Clock Wise: 7* initial 32* with weights fully extended
( measured in crankshaft degrees )

So the 532CCW cam would give 27° total mechanical advance when weights are fully extended? The 732CCW would give 25° total mechanical advance when weights are fully extended? Do you think the weights would weigh the same between a set of 532s vs the 732s? I have a set of 532 I can weigh but I don't have a set of 732 weights to weigh.

The cams are all the same. The advance units are different.

The advance cams ARE NOT all the same- there are long slot and short slots... The weights are the same and then the vacuum advance cans are of course specific for applications.

Don’t forget a bushing. With a distributor machine it is easy to set up exactly what you want, it can be done in the car, but it is allot harder and time consuming. The Hp shafts and cams allowed a lot of advance due to the factory 6 or 8 initial, I like to run a lot more initial and less mechanical.

The cam sections are the same. The advance portions are different. Meaning the cam that triggers the points.

Old Leaded gas
 

All this stuff is true BUT that was with leaded gas. So if most cars today are running unleaded gas,now a day,why would set the cars on the old specifics. Set them up for today gas.

Vacuum advance cans are all set for leaded gas too. I found that if you set all intake manifold to the can[all cans are different] and put a limiting tool on the can so 10 deg max they run good,with to days gas.

say that in English Pauly

Lead is not relevant its octane. Lead was an octane booster but no longer.

In the older gas [leaded gas as one thing]. Today gas has more stuff in it and that changes stuff.

Hi Sam,all I said is that because gas is not the same today so it is not good to set it up the old way. Got it Sam.

° is on the zero key. :grin:

If you like it that way. I found that intake manifold vacuum on the can at idle is 10 deg max,adj can that way with a tool,runs good and cylinder temp stays down too. I hope that helps.

That's what I love about this site. You guys know your s***. LOL

Thank you I love it intake manifold vacuum.

At the end of the season, I have race gas left over. I mix a couple of gallons in a tank of Premium and my engine will actually rev above 3500 without detonation.

They have a lot of stuff in gas for fuel injections,so they will not stick and more.

I like to mix some 112 Sunoco in with my 93 octane Pauly. Actually even starts a little easier.

Good for you Sam. Sam do you have your vacuum can hooked up yet.

I run a 25% mix of VP 110 leaded with 87 no ethanol to bump me up in the 92-93 range-starts better, runs better...

FWIW the BTU's in a gallon of gasoline has gone down significantly in the last 30 years... it was 126,000 BTU prior to 1993 -- when they began mixing ethanol into the supply... the current BTU's for gasoline is listed ~114,000 BTU -as an aside... 100% Ethanol is ~ 57,000 BTU/gal

THIS MEANS that in order to get the same power you need more fuel... bigger jets... IF you are running any ethanol laced fuel you may have to increase jet size by 5-10% in order to get the same power out of the engine.