Query - McLeod RST clutch - who uses one
 

if you do - I'm curious =
what is your experience with take off?

any shudder at all?

I know about the gear rattle at 2000rpm from unsprung hubs, but I want to know if I'm the only one who has experienced shudder on take off

I think I isolated my problem that was causing the sudden - but before I go back to this clutch, I want to be sure.

thanks

What weight flywheel? The shutter may be the inertia of the flywheel?

I have the clutch you are asking about...twin disc? I have not driven mine yet so I cannot say how it will react.

My flywheel is an Aluminum 12LB so I have no ideal how it will pull out from a dead stop. Lots of RPM for the 302 but don't know driving it yet.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

I have the RXT in my car with a 22 pound flywheel. I haven't had any problems with it.

Street or race car for the RXT Freddie?

Dave
67 Nova Boy

We use the RST and RXT in many of our NicKey builds. The RST is very close to stock and the RXT does have a small amount of shudder due to the more aggressive clutch disk compound.

Both. I drive it on the street and race it. I haven't noticed any rattle or chatter. I had a Centerforce DF in it before and the pedal pressure is about equal. I haven't noticed that it's any harder to drive on the street than what the DF was.

I had an RST in my 67 Nova with a 422 SBC. I thought the clutch was very smooth on engagement and held power VERY well (600 flywheel).

On a different note, I have an interesting challenge with a customer car (sorry to get off the question)

This was a car (78 Trans Am) that was purchased from a well known internet dealer (who will remain nameless) sight unseen.

The clutch was not right in the car nor was the transmission. There also was a vibration that was strictly limited to engine RPM. I pulled it all apart, changed the clutch, machined the flywheel, corrected the clutch geometry in the bell housing, and reassembled. This was a Luk clutch in a stock Pontiac 400 with a stock bellhousing to boot. The clutch chattered.

Pulled it all back apart again. Checking all of the measurements, torques, etc. The bellhousing concentric measurements were within tolerance. What was off and causing the chatter.....................the flywheel was not square on the flywheel grinder when machined. When I dial indicated the face of the flywheel, it measured -.004 on one side and +.0065 180 degrees apart (over .010 runout). The flange on the crank had less than .001 runout.

I am picking up the clutch and flywheel today from a different machine shop who remachined the flywheel (square), and has balanced the clutch and flywheel as an assembly. The flywheel was out of balance by a fair amount exaggerated by the clutch.

I can post the results when I get the car back together. My point......check these things when they are coming apart and going back together. I could have saved myself a fair amount of time, labor, and BS had I done that.

Tim

Tim,

Your so right about checking parts either right out of the box or redoned used parts. Been there to many times to always check the parts. I have my cross ram that was NOS and the lid rocked a good 1/8th and the shop at Bill Jenkin's, heated the top up and squared it perfect.

Time and tons of labor will be saved by taking the time to check your parts!!!

Dave
67 Nova Boy

I had an RXT in a 500hp 2003 Cobra . slight chatter if you drove it like a regular car. No difference if you beat on it a little.. I liked it ..never SLIPPED..

As suspected, getting the flywheel machined properly and checking everything, took care of the issue. The flywheel now dials in about .0005 just inside of the pressure plate holes.
On a different note, the aftermarket flywheel was out 14 grams and the clutch needed another 4 grams. Vibration is gone too!