Re-assembly is going good. But I'm thinking I need to 're-clock' the alternator. Does anyone have a picture or can you tell/explain to me where the wiring connections on the backside of the alternator need to be when assembled?
Thanks

I found a good picture from a beautifully restored 1969 - and it shows the screw on power terminal at 12 o'clock and the 2-wire terminal at 3 o'clock.
That looks like it should be right

After lunch today I was going to start the engine and let the new cam and lifters break-in, but the engine didn't want to start. After trying several things I thought/hoped would help but didn't, I ran the trouble shooting guide for the XR-i ignition.
Once I had it isolated to the secondary system I swapped the rotor but that didn't help so I replaced the cap.
When I had pulled the spark plug wires out of the distributor cap I knew I had found the problem because the coil and #3 terminals were black - not nice clean brass like the other terminals.
Cap and rotor are not 6 months old - they are Accel brand products. Plug wires are also new. This is just a problem I should not have had.
Anyway I did get the engine to start - so I will get the cam broke-in in the next few days.

Got the cam and lifters broke-in yesterday ... everything went well, engine started right up and I kept it at a high idle for 20 minutes.
I did use Mr. Gasket shim steel head gaskets so I'm guessing I will need to go back and re-torque the heads after a couple more heat and cool cycles - but I will check with Mr. Gasket techs - then I will re-run the valve lash.
I'm going to have to get an appointment at the muffler shop to get the new pipes from the cast iron exhaust manifolds connected to the pipes that had gone to the headers that were on the car.
I might make a car out of this thing yet ... lol

Still making progress - I will try to get an appointment lined-up with the muffler shop this week.
I did get the new driver side kick panel in so I will try to work on the passenger side this week also.

I’m excited about this build and appreciate the updates. Keep up the good work.

Jason

Did a lot of cleaning in the 'pocket' behind the passenger side kick panel (like I did on the drivers side) - and took the glove box out so that I could get the wires routed better/correctly.
Also the glove box only had 1 screw holding it in so I tried to get everything back together better and with all 4 screws. Didn't make it new, but it sure looks and works better - useable now.... lol
If nothing goes wrong I hope to get the new kick panel in tomorrow.

Here is a couple of pictures of the engine that is in the car now

I've got both new kick panels in now. Also I take the car to the muffler shop next Monday. I've also gone by and talked to the guy at the transmission shop and will be taking the car there sometime after the mufflers shop is finished. Trans works good but has a couple of leaks - 1 around the vacuum modulator and 1 around the shaft for the shifter. And he said something about replacing the one at the governor cover also. Oh, and I ask him about connecting the wire from the 'kick-down' switch.

Absolutely! That was the “look”. My L78 ‘67 always had stock springs, but to mount my slicks & similar beefy tires & wheels (for the street, as I never raced it at the track) I used those coil spring inserts to separate the coils & lift the car a bit....it actually worked!!! lol! Ride quality wasn’t harmed much at all, and I had plenty of clearance for my M/T Super Scavenger Headers underneath!

Nice ride you have there...enjoy it and make it your own!