Delfleet Essential Black Polyurethane
 

Is anybody familiar with using/mixing Delfleet factory pack flat black
& Delfleet factory pak gloss black to achieve a semi gloss for fender well
wheel house underhood, differential etc etc.............

I have the PPG suggested formulas, but wanting 1st hand user experience ???

Bump.................

FWIW here are some samples of Black Lacquer I did in order to determine what happens upon polishing...

Catalyzed urethanes typically require quite a bit flattener to overcome the hardeners.
For Rockers and tail pans I use 4 oz black - 2 oz clear - 2 oz catalyst- 2 oz flattener.

Chuck I think your best bet is to buy the gloss black and use the flatting agent to get the correct matt finish, I will need to do the same thing cause I am on my last Gallon of Sikkens Black Polyurethane. They stopped making it years ago so I purchased 9 gallons of it, that was all that was in the pipeline and all I could get my hands on. Apparently every one else had the same idea. After a bunch of single stage black paint jobs and under hood parts I will be forced to use another brand of SS Black which I know will be not be nearly as good as the Sikkens 242 black so I am shit out of luck. I was thinking about giving the SPI Black SS a try.:dunno:
Mark

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Mark, Glad that you posted on this subject..............

I have read two different issues of Hemmings Muscle Cars where Nile Wing and
Scott Tieman both used PPG Delfleet Essential Black on project frames, and misc sheetmetal. I had my painter use the Gloss and DX10 flattener to achieve the semi gloss
formula. Tieman suggested using reducer but PPG doesnt mention it in their tech bulletin.

I also bought SPI Epoxy Black primer One Gal Primer & One Gallon Activator shipped to my door for $212.............under half the price of PPG DPLF !!!!!
My painter and mega users on the SPI Forum rave about the product......

I also use the SPI Epoxy, Great stuff. The type and amount of reducer will effect the gloss level so when you get the desired finish keep track of the amount of matt and reducer that was used. I also learned the hard way that baking the parts will also effect the gloss. I used to add a small amount of white and yellow to the black on some of the underhood parts to duplicate the black that the factory used. That formula is now worthless. I'm gonna have to start all over when I decide which black SS I am going to start using. I'm leaning towards the SPI. Barry has a great product and he stands behind it.
Mark

Mark and Chuck,

On the subject of the SPI epoxy, I spoke to Barry and have been working with his Epoxy for a couple of years on my 70Z project. Per Barry's advice and based on my own working experience, I get more consistent results in the gloss / flat appearance using the epoxy versus urethanes, whether they be clears or solids. For the black, I used anywhere between 3% and 8% by weight flattener before adding the hardener.

On a side note, to duplicate the 70 Norwood red oxide, I like 8% black and 5% flattener by weight added to SPI's red oxide epoxy (pre-hardener). I understand the red oxide appearance could change based on several factors, but based on original no-UV exposure panels I have, the above matches very well.

Steve, I dont comprehend your 8%, 5% etc.......

What brand/part number Flattner are you using ...I'm familiar with PPG DX-10.....

Are you using flattner because the SPI Red Oxide is too glossy as might be the
situation with the black.........

Below pic is SPI Epoxy on my 73 project which is NOT a restoration

Could not get under floor pic to post.....................ugh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

Chuck,

To the SPI red oxide, I adds 8% black, (weight of the red oxide x .08), then add 5% flattener (Red+Black weight x .05). All materials are SPI including their flattening agent #940-4....and yes, Barry approved using the flattening agent in the epoxy. Here's some pics of the red oxide results on my 70Z project:

https://www.yenko.net/foruhttp://www....1&d=1504883799