YES! FINALLY!!! Let’s see what this all entailed, shall we?
-First major issue to deal with was a bunch of minor electrical gremlins. The key-in-buzzer relay was a culprit causing the blue wire to be powered in the main circuit of the car when the door jamb switch was activated. This blue wire powers the ignition circuit leading to the car not shutting down until you pull the key out. Incorrectly diagnosis was the ignition switch being the problem. This also caused the oil pressure light to illuminate with the key in the ignition and the door open. It also caused, for whatever reason, the Reverse indicator light on the dash to illuminate dimly.
-Next, there was the incorrectly made fuel filter which didn’t allow gas to flow through it resulting in a back pressure build up on the fuel pump side. The car would run, use up the gas in the bowls, then die. It wouldn’t start when hot since there was no fuel in the carburetor. As the car cooled, the built up fuel pressure would trickle fuel up and into the bowls refilling the carburetor so after ten minutes of cursing, yelling, and throwing tools, enough gas made it up there to refill the empty bowls to allow it to start. Then it was a vicious circle...
It also lead to me thinking it was the ballast resistor or some other related ignition part that when heated up, would fail.
-And then there’s the single point - dual point issue with the distributors. The dual point rotor phasing is nowhere near where the single point rotor phasing it located. In other words, when the motor is at TDC, the rotors do not point to the same position on the cap. Therefore, the date coded plug wires do not fit correctly, are stretched, and pull away from the plugs. This eventually resulted in lots of popping during the cam break in. Somehow, it all stayed together enough to get it broke it with no issues, but two plugs were brand new when I pulled them to check things out. They basically never fired.
-Two other things I found out recently but didn’t post which adds more issues to what I was dealing with: The tach had an internal short!
I mounted an aftermarket tach on the dash to monitor things and after the initial mess was all cleared up, on the last go when I finally got it running, I did not have the tach hooked up. After hooking it up, the car wouldn’t start.
Took it back and exchanged it for a new one and no problems noted. The plugs were the wrong ones. Package says one thing, part inside was another which resulted in an improper gap setting for that colder plug.
-And let us readdress the single point - dual point distributors again. At this point being fed up with all this nonsense, one last attempt at getting this thing running before I sent it on it’s way over to Ebay, was to swap out the points for a Pertronix Ignitor II, matching coil, and brand new plugs. VRRROOMMM!!!!!!
So again, a big thanks to everyone since the majority of you all hit one of the MANY issues I was having. Basically, there were so many that I think this car should be known now as the “Car that Yenko.net built”!!!!!!
So now it’s time for some much anticipated seat time behind the wheel this week!!!! I mean, what ELSE could go wrong at this point??
Cheers
Dave