This won't be a super long post. Just catching up with some loose ends of the build (chassis):
At the rear, I used a Detroit Speed front Delrin bushing arrangement. The way it's built (with the step on one side), you can move the spring in ever so slightly. Camaros and Novas of this era were built with springs that were splayed. By slightly moving the spring on the front bushing, you can pick up a tiny amount of extra tire clearance. The limitation is the actual spring perch in the housing. Move the spring too much and of course, it won't fit the housing. This the bushing from Detroit Speed (note the flush mount zerk). It's a nice piece:
Even though the car was a low miler, I still went through the steering components. I added a set of Hotchkiss tie rod sleeves too. They just make wheel alignments easier for folks like me who perform the task at home.
I built a completely new set of brakes, front and rear. At the rear, I had to cut the original drums off the car. The reason was someone previous to me totally messed up the adjusters. It was impossible to back them off and consequently, no easy way to remove the drums. I was hoping to save the backing plates, but in the process I nicked them with an angle grinder/cutoff wheel combination. Parts came from various sources, but the backing plates and drums are from Inline Tube. BTW: There are some differences in backing plates and drums. Some aftermarket backing plates do not have access for knockout plugs (!?). I wasn't crazy about that idea, hence the Inline Tube parts.
Here's a photo of the back brakes with a drum installed. When installing drum brakes with Mark Williams big axle bearings, the ID of the backing plate has to be enlarged. On the drum side, everything fits without modification. Those are 1/2-inch wheel studs from M-W and yes, they fit under the dog dish hubcaps.
In some previous cars, I built them with aftermarket front brakes. The trouble with most of them is they won't fit a stock steel wheel (at least without mods or spacers). The other disadvantage is service parts. With stock brakes, I can get service parts almost anywhere. So. for this car, I used made-in-USA two piece rotors and a mix of reproduction and replacement parts. One word of caution: I painfully discovered that dust caps and castle nuts from some aftermarket sources (Chinese I'm assuming) don't fit. The dust caps and the castle nuts are simply built wrong. For example, when you install the dust cap, it actually contacts the washer and then pushes the bearing back further onto the spindle. Fortunately I discovered this early on. By the way, the OEM drum brake pieces I had worked perfectly. Once I had the "bugs" worked out, it all functions correctly. Additionally, you can see some of the chassis fasteners in this photo. I mentioned this before but I replaced all of the hardware with phosphate plated pieces.
Out back, I had Wheel Vintiques make up a set of 15X8-inch OE-style wheels with a 5-1/4-inch backspace. They took forever, but they finally finished them. Once in hand, I had them painted to match the car and mounted a set of M&H Racemaster P275-60R15 drag radials. They tuck in nicely under the car:
That's all for now...