I set them up here for various applications. What you have shouldn't be difficult to start with. You can subtract at least 10 degrees duration from the solid cam right off the bat so that camshaft really isn't all that big. The tighter LSA might make it choppy compared to 115 on a DZ cam, but it will shorten up and bring in the torque curve a bit sooner and feel stronger.
I run a similar flat tappet solid in our DZ, with 112 LSA, with other specs close to the 30/30, but with more lift and tight lash. Basically a cheater cam. I also run Hooker Super Comps. Everything else about ours is stock OEM issue with a true 11:1 compression.
I find the stock DZ intakes like a stagger jetting in the carb. Mine made a pinch more HP. The way the runners are designed prefers more jet on the driver side. Before I'd worry about that I'd concentrate on a basic setup and make sure everything is okay.
72/76 jetting is perfectly fine and should perform well enough to get things going. As far as power valves, a common misconception on them is that they have to be lower than the vacuum reading at idle or they'll flood the engine. Doesn't work that way. Fuel is only pulled through the power valve circuit when the throttle blades are exposing the transition slot and pulling fuel through the jets, only then does the power valve circuit become active. They do not work at idle. It's very important to make sure initially that your throttle blades aren't exposing more than about 1/8" of the transition slots both front and rear. Much more than that and you will be pulling fuel through the jets (and power valves if engine vacuum is low enough) and have a very rich condition at idle, and also makes your mixture screws inoperative.
If the car doesn't idle properly like this there could be one of a couple things going on. One may be that you need to create a small vacuum leak by drilling a pair of very small holes in the throttle blades so they can be closed properly. The other issue that I find most common these days, if trying to run this on 10-15% ethanol mixed gas is that the idle circuit may not be rich enough. 10% ethanol stoich is 14:1, not 14.7:1, and will sometimes act a little funky trying to run a very lean mixture with inconsistent idle. Almost every carb I do I have to richen the idle circuit to compensate. On our DZ I had to drill the idle feed restrictors for more idle fuel. I'll have to check but I think I ended up .002 or .003" larger. Every engine is a little different here and I use a wideband to dial things in combined with what the engine is telling me it's happy with and best drivability.
Getting back to the power valves, that cam you're using, if you have a true 11:1 compression, and the cam was installed at a proper ICL, the engine shouldn't have much trouble making at least 12 inches of vacuum at sea level. Mine makes 10" at 5,000 ft elevation and 13 inches at sea level. I'd stick with the 6.5 power valves until you get some driving in. What I find with too low of a power valve in most cases is tip in stumble because the PV circuit is delayed too much, and no amount of squirter tuning will get rid of it. You might be able to bandaid it and cover most of it up, but the PV is the real cure and will also help mid range throttle transitions. My engine still likes 6.5 PV's in it front and rear. Even trying 4.5's creates an off idle stumble.
I found with mine, I stagger jet the driver side up 2 sizes to compensate for the runner design of the DZ intake. I'm at 5,000 ft, and routinely drive the car to sea level so I make a compromise on mine so I don't have to keep fiddling with it. I run 70/72 front and 76/78 rear with the 6.5 PV's. Along with the idle circuit fattened slightly (we run strictly 91 pump gas) Throttle response is crisp and quick. With the wide band up here where we routinely see DA numbers near 8,000 ft in the summer, it cruises around town between 12.5 to 13:1 AFR. Idle is right at 13.8:1 AFR, and WOT hovers around 12.4:1. Wife drives it daily, plugs stay nice and clean, the engine seems to like it, and it knocks down 14 mpg around town and 17 mpg highway with an M-20 and 3.55's. When we drive down to sea level, the AFR's lean out about a full point, and it runs fantastic so I find no need to constantly tinker with it, I just live with it being ever so slightly rich up here on the mountain.
That's with Hooker super comps and a complete Pypes 2 1/2" transverse muffler system. Hope that helps a bit. More questions you can PM me or email if you wish.
[email protected]
Larry