Brake Pads/Rotor Question

[MosportGreen66]

Hi Gents,

Seeking your expertise. Two ago weeks I changes the pads and rotors in my 2011 Subaru WRX. Parts came from NAPA. Pads are the top of the line product from NAPA (if any consolation?). Car has 54k miles and this is the second set of pads I've put on it but first time I changed the rotors. I had the original rotors cut/resurfaced during my first brake servicing.

I rarely use the car due to work travel so I've only put on about 10 miles since doing the service. I noticed that when the brakes get hot it appears the pads/rotors stick. Almost like the brakes have a squeak to them that does not go away - as the wheels turn and the brakes are not applied the pads remain to some degree touching the rotors? I was thinking possibly the rotors are not perfectly round and/or the pads are not flush?

Thanks for the time and looking forward to any suggestions. The car does stop very well and there is no performance loss at all - just an annoying noise.

Thanks,
Dan

[Postsedan]

Top of the line does not always cut it with certain brand brakes.

I would check your calipers too.
I would also get advice from Subaru, I have always found that no other brand last quite like the original set first set of pads.

Dan

[earntaz]

Here's my .02 worth. Sometimes the "top of the line" brake pads are made of a very hard material and as a result, when the brakes are cold may take more pressure to stop. These pads a designed to operate under very high temperatures. To make em' work, they have to be hot.

No fault of NAPA counter folks, but sometimes if a customer asks for the best pads available, they are sold the HP pads designed to work under adverse conditions. OEM type pads should work just fine and return the system back to as it was in the beginning. TAZ

[Lee Stewart]

Originally Posted by earntaz

Here's my .02 worth. Sometimes the "top of the line" brake pads are made of a very hard material and as a result, when the brakes are cold may take more pressure to stop. These pads a designed to operate under very high temperatures. To make em' work, they have to be hot.

No fault of NAPA counter folks, but sometimes if a customer asks for the best pads available, they are sold the HP pads designed to work under adverse conditions. OEM type pads should work just fine and return the system back to as it was in the beginning. TAZ

TAZ:

What you are describing sounds like metallic brake pads

[Lee Stewart]

[MosportGreen66]

This is great information guys thanks... I think the next step will be OEM brake pads, brake pad and some Disc Brake Quiet.

[KENNY PASCOE]

I have never had any luck with Napa brake pads period . Same symptoms you are having Dan . KP

[Spooky]

Most of the time, we find that there is rust build up where the slide clips go and the pads are basically stuck. We wire brush most of the rust off and then use a skinny file to get the caliper bracket back to clean metal. Disc brake spray on the pads and brake grease on the clips (both sides of the clips) work the best. The grease on the back side of the clip prevents the rust build up. Check to see if the pads slide with no resistance on the caliper bracket before being put on the car.

We use ceramic pads on everything. less noise and very little dusting.

Hope it helps
Scott

[bugsy]

I worked at BMW years ago. always used factory brake parts. I always put never seize where ever metal touched metal even on the brake rotors whete the wheel was against. Techs use to laugh at me ans said i was easting my time. Not bragging but never had a brake job ever come back. people dont like to use torque sticks they would rather run the lugnuts in with 125psi. there is always a reason why we have torque specs. JMO - hope everything works out for you.

[MosportGreen66]

Much appreciated again guys! For continuity, I purchased OEM pads and OEM grease from Subaru for my first brake service @ about 32k miles. No issues at all with the OEM parts. This a great lesson learned.

Thanks,
Dan