![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Completed Tow Tabs as Lakewoods to compliment all the other Lakewood Day 2 Add-ons:
3 point loop roll bar Scatter shield n louvered block saver Drive shaft loop Drag Shocks front & rear U-Joints Traction Action. (Grumpy Bars) J bolt kit Motor Mounts and Trans mnt. & some miscellaneous items. Fly eye too....
__________________
Day Two Specialties /High Quality Muscle Car Parts. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Any Vintage Lakewood U-joints for Nova for sale? Throw out bearings in vintage Lakewood?
Dave 67 Nova Boy |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Dave.
The truth is.... Lakewood repackaged U joints... The ones I have came from Streetside performance Brute Strength brand are the ones Lakewood uses. $16 vs $58. For the Identical made in USA Solid joint , of course with no grease fitting. Identified by the Red rubber cap seal. Gotta love Lakewood's way of making money on everyone else's dime... Those are Paul's Tow tabs BTW.
__________________
Day Two Specialties /High Quality Muscle Car Parts. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Likewise, I don't think Lakewood motor mounts are anything special either.
Spicer life non-greaseable U-joints are the ones to use these days. http://www.jegs.com/p/Spicer/Spicer-...14756/10002/-1 No one is going to notice whether or not your u-joints are period-correct. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img] Question: When did Lakewood stop punching louvers in the block plates? |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks all for the reply's...don't care about period correct just strong as I run a stick and want no worries. The ones in the car may be Lakewoods from the 70's. Sometime in the early 70's is when they were last changed.
Dave 67 Nova Boy |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 67 Nova Boy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The ones in the car may be Lakewoods from the 70's. Sometime in the early 70's is when they were last changed.
Dave 67 Nova Boy</div></div> Do you think they may be "dry' after 40 years ? You're running a D/S loop aren't you ?
__________________
Day Two Specialties /High Quality Muscle Car Parts. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Um....not yet BUT I have an NMW to install.
The u joints have to be! They scare me they have been in there so long! Dave 67 Nova Boy U joint chart |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The Scatter Shield is old because of the HOLE in the bottom that is used for clutch adjustment,I don't know if the hole could pass tech now.
__________________
![]() |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 67 Nova Boy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Um....not yet BUT I have an NMW to install.
The u joints have to be! They scare me they have been in there so long! Dave 67 Nova Boy </div></div> I would be just as worried about the 50 yr old 2.75" diameter thin wall Chevy II driveshaft. For peace of mind, I put a Denny's HD shaft in my '65 Chevy II stick car. Dennys uses the Spicer joints, and they claim a 500 hp rating for this shaft with stock-size 1310 joints. It's a nice piece. A little pricey, but nice. I'm sure I'll blow up the Muncie or the 8.2" 10-bolt before I hurt the shaft. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c2_h...iveshafts.html |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks for the link.
Yes, you are right about the drive shaft... Will update that at same time. Dave 67 Nova Boy |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|