Tall Deck BBC, Valve Covers & Power Booster

Hi folks. Elsewhere on the site I placed my 572 BBC shortblock for sale. In that ad I (somewhat jokingly) said I might dumb it down and put it in my '69 Nova if no buys it. Now I've had too much time to think about it....L-O-L. I can deal with headers (Lemons Headers can help me out there and likely so can Stahl). '

The thought that strikes me is to use a much smaller cam than what I have, bolt on a set of reworked 990 casting iron heads (large port OC), add a set of intake spacers and use an original 163 intake with a 1,000 CFM 4150 Holley on top. Now, I'd prefer to use a set of Crane roller rockers I have here. That would obviously require a taller than stock valve cover (maybe a set of vintage M/T's with the drippers removed....or?).

The big question is, can this all fit with a stock power booster in my 1969 Nova? I'm using repro 1969 big block frame mounts, a set of Lakewood rubber mounts and a repro big block transmission crossmember.

Thanks guys. I know in this huge knowledge pool, someone has either done this very thing or has examined a car with a tall deck installed. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/youguysrock.gif[/img]

Wayne

[markjohnson]

Wayne, maybe I'll chime in a bit here since you and I seem to share some similar interests and have done some similar builds. Tall Decks have become so popular, especially in 1967-69 Camaros &amp; 1968-72 Novas, that Doug's is even offering that off-the-shelf header for about $790 (#D321). Personally, I'm a big fan of just doing a swap to manual brake master cylinders. I've always put two strikes against power brake boosters.....I think they're big &amp; ugly and since many of us like these big monster duration camshafts, I just don't want to worry about supplying sufficient vacuum. If you still want to retain the PB though, don't forget that those cheater valve covers are available for BBC's that are slightly taller than stock ones but look stock. I think they look great and you can also get even a little more height by stacking those late-model, hard-plastic valve covers together. I've done this several times and have fit Aluminum roller rockers and polylocks underneath them. I really like your short block and man, are those big motors in sleeper cars lots of fun! I'd like to see you dig up a set of older GM aluminum heads though to keep that precious extra 75 LBS. off the nose and give it an L-88/L-89 look about it.

Hey Mark! Thanks for the advice. If the shortblock doesn't sell in the next couple of months, I'm pretty sure that's the direction I'll take. You're right on the aluminum heads (here, I think I might try to find a set of the &quot;D&quot; port jobs that replaced the second design L88 heads -- I suspect some of today's head porters might even have a NHRA-SS legal CNC program for them). Also, I see Dynatech makes headers for this combination too. Have you had any experience with the Dynatech headers or the Doug's stuff? What's the quality like (say better or worse than Hooker Super Comp headers as a baseline)? Also, any idea if Edelbrock's vintage valve covers will clear a roller rocker/polylock?

I really dig the semi-sleeper thing. I was just out in the shop and discovered a good old fashioned Delco distributor cap fits a modern MSD Billet distributor...Hmmm. I'd need to hide a buzz box somewhere, but that shouldn't be a big issue. I guess I'm thinking aloud.

Thanks again Mark. Probably a good thing we live a zillion miles apart [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]

Wayne

[markjohnson]

Wayne, your camshaft specs looked very familiar to me and I dug out my old cam card for the last 540 CID I built and it looks like we have the exact same camshaft! I agree about being a bit on the tame side for such large displacements but I was content leaving a little power on the table for the sake of valvetrain reliability. I've known too many people that built &quot;big&quot; motors and cam'ed them to the point where they were just valvespring killers and I wanted to avoid that. And yeah, you're right about Dynatech also making a Tall-Deck header for Camaros/Novas for about $770. I'd probably order a set each....both Dynatech and Doug's, check 'em out in person and keep the set that I like the most and return the others. Hook these up to a TorqueTech 3 1/2 exhaust system and you've got a neat set-up. Hey, about an old Edelbrock C454 dual-plane with a Holley 4500 hidden under a stock type air cleaner? That be a great set-up for the top of a big motor and look &quot;stock-ish&quot;.

[396L35]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hotrodsled</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Thanks again Mark. Probably a good thing we live a zillion miles apart [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]

Wayne

</div></div>

Wayne Im glad I live about 2 miles away from Mark and all his useful knowledge... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/[/img]

[69 Post Sedan]

Mark, what's your opinion for Wayne on aluminum heads with longer 7/16&quot; rocker arm studs? The aluminum on the 074 heads isn't the best and are known for pulling the studs out. On my 077 aluminum heads I am running both longer studs with double helicoils and a stud girdle but I don't know if that setup will work with a tall deck and power brakes.

[SuperNovaSS]

I have heard the longer studs can cut through at the heat crossover and water jacket. I think Albert had problems with this.


Jason

[markjohnson]

&quot;Well, I currently have a set nice set of #077's on my LS-6 and I knew that they have a history of breaking rocker stud bosses. It's rare to find a set that have actually never been welded on. Anyway, it's very important to purchase a set of ARP Rocker Studs that have the deep threads on bottom. Also, get a bottoming tap to add an extra 2-3 threads to the bottom of ALL the rocker holes. Go slow and use tapping oil, you DO NOT want to deal with a broken tap that deep. That head would be ruined. It's been a few years since I did this, but I think there was only a couple rocker studs (the end ones maybe?) that need to have a thread or two removed so they the shoulder would seat properly. I think if you did this and stuck with a solid lifer cam, and not a wild roller, that you could get by without that stud girdle. I've got a .600 lift solid camshaft in mine with ZERO trouble over several years now. Those Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rockers seem like very good ones and should be fine. I'll tell 'ya, I've had just the best luck you could ever imagine with Harland Sharp Roller Rockers. I think some people are scared away from them by their lower price, but I've used them quite a bit with no trouble ever, even on some pretty radical Roller cam'ed street cars that I ran hard for many miles. And trust me.....I run them hard.&quot;

That's an older post of mine quoted above. I've never heard of the longer shank of an aluminum head-specific rocker stud hitting water or heat crossover but I suppose in the rare case that happens, a fella could just use silicone sealer on the threads.....just like the head bolts. The ARP Rocker Studs I have used are stock length on their top segment so you can get away with using stock valve covers. I've never been a fan of stud girdles and I've used Jesel Shaft Rockers instead. I know their expensive, but after you buy regular roller rockers, rocker studs, pushrod guideplates, and a stud girdle....you're actually pretty close to shaft rocker money anyway! Speaking of shaft rockers, I'll never buy another of Jesels again and when I'm in the market for my next set I'll be buying T&amp;D Rockers, but that's a story for another time.

[69 Post Sedan]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuperNovaSS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have heard the longer studs can cut through at the heat crossover and water jacket. I think Albert had problems with this.


Jason </div></div>

Jason, the single exhaust stud above the crossover has to be shortened .100&quot;. My heads were purchased from a shop out in NY...the guy new his stuff! Gary from The Engine Shop. His username on Team Chevelle is GOSFAST.

[92646]

I did a 540 in a 69 Camaro years ago but it had the shorter deck than the 572. I always recomend Doug's headers because of the quality of the welds and the thick flanges but the fit was not as good as the Hooker super comps I ended up putting on the car. I used the stock looking valve covers from Nohah performance that I found on E-bay, that worked great. I had roller rockers and the factory brake booster and everything fit with room to spare. I read an article about somebody that put together a crossram 302 and they used aftermarket heads but machined the fronts to look like original heads and painted them orange. If you run the 163 intake the spacers will be giving it away on what you have. It would be better with a dedicated intake for a tall block but use a a 4150 based carb to hide everything under the air cleaner. Wayne does this mean the buick is gone?