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#1
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i have a 69 z28 survivor, and the engine is all gm parts, including lifters and cam. What pushrods should i use? i see the "blue-tip" pushrods on ebay but i was wondering if there are any aftermarkets that are good or the same. thanks guys
Matt
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1967 Z28 survivor Black original drivetrain 1968 Z28 survivor white 40k miles 1969 Z28 survivor Rally Green 60k miles 1969 Z28 survivor Rally Green 20k miles 1969 Yenko Camaro Lemans Blue -muscatell sold new, second to last yenko made 1969 Berger copo original paint 240 miles Lots of 67-72 Chevrolet trucks |
#2
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We use a very simliar push rod to the blue tip GM's and they are actually stronger than the GM push rods. $120 a set plus shipping. Have a darker heat treated look. Have used them in dozens of 302s that I've built over the years.
Jerry |
#3
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[ QUOTE ]
i have a 69 z28 survivor, and the engine is all gm parts, including lifters and cam. What pushrods should i use? i see the "blue-tip" pushrods on ebay but i was wondering if there are any aftermarkets that are good or the same. thanks guys Matt [/ QUOTE ] Call Compitition Products in Oshkosh WI 800-233-0199 I would use part number #1400 4130 material .065 wall 1pc swedge end much stronger than factory price is 52.95 you could go to a .080 wall but not needed in your application, hope this can help.
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#4
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We have had bad luck with the swedged tip and ball tip push rods in 302 engines. On at least two dyno tests, they have bent or broke over 6000 rpm.
I have had great success with Comp Cams push rods. They cost more but are one piece seamless and made in the USA. .065" wall and good over 8000 rpm. This is what I use in my Stock Eliminator engines and none have ever failed. Many of the less expensive push rods are made in Taiwan. Just some food for thought. Jerry |
#5
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[ QUOTE ]
We have had bad luck with the swedged tip and ball tip push rods in 302 engines. On at least two dyno tests, they have bent or broke over 6000 rpm. I have had great success with Comp Cams push rods. They cost more but are one piece seamless and made in the USA. .065" wall and good over 8000 rpm. This is what I use in my Stock Eliminator engines and none have ever failed. Many of the less expensive push rods are made in Taiwan. Just some food for thought. Jerry [/ QUOTE ] The number I gave him was a howards not import they sound like the same pushrod, I was mistaken when I said swedge tip they are 5/16 and no reason to be swedge, Im use to running 3/8 and they have to be swedge, I agree I would not ever run a ball end type pushrod on anything. As far as Howards products I have never had any problems and have purchased Hundreads of sets without failure, now I do not specialize in 302's probably never will, I build engines in a different form than most use here. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#6
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Why not use GM pushrods to keep your GM car all GM? GM performance parts has very good pushrods for your Z.
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1968 Z/28 34,000 mile, born with engine and trans, Shipper, California car, Fathom Blue, deluxe interior, M21, 3.55 Posi 1962 Oldsmobile Jetfire, Factory all Aluminum V8 Turbocharged and Methanol Injected TURBO ROCKET engine, 4 speed Hydramatic, 4 link rear suspension, 3.36 Anti-Spin differential, California car, PS, PB, PW, AC, Jetfire 2 option package. |
#7
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The new GM push rods will not hold up if you drive the car and rev it up to 6000-7000 rpm. Especially a 302. If it's a trailer queen, then they're fine.
The hardened blue tips have been long gone. Jerry |
#8
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You'd have to think that technology has improved in the past 30 years...
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
#9
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Bruce,
In Stock Eliminator, the best rocker arms to use are still the original "O" stamped rockers. All of the heat treated Manleys, Cranes, etc eventually break in the 7000-8000 rpm range. They do not hold up like the originals. I can't figure that one out either. Jerry |
#10
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See...what the heck do I know?
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
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