What to look for when looking at a COPO???

**The Boss** · #1 12-31-2009, 04:25 AM

Might be checking out a 69 Camaro that the seller claims is a 9561 COPO. I'm a Pontiac guy and know everything to look at on a GTO or a bird, but am lost when it comes to this car. I know about the hidden vin under the cowl cover, but what other codes should I look for, and where would they be?

Also what would the value of a nice clean driver be?

parkbrau · #2 12-31-2009, 02:21 PM

I would look for documentation. X-11 or X-44 code on the trim tag would be a plus. Do you have the VIN and Trim Tag info? Pics of those will assist the folks in the know. I'm not sure what the value is.

**The Boss** · #3 12-31-2009, 05:16 PM

I'll get them, thanks.

**PeteLeathersac** · #4 12-31-2009, 07:10 PM

Others here can give better advise than I but if you're on your way now before others get a chance to chime in, here's a few things..
Is it supposed to be a complete original car or a supposed 9561 car w/ parts missing/removed?.
Besides obvious Vin and Cowl tag codes, things to look for and make sure to take pics of to compare w/ other known genuine cars are the pierced hole in the cowl also make sure to get ALL Cowl tag #'s as the body #'s were sometimes consecutive also if D80 is noted check against build date..
If supposed original parts note and take pics of all engine and trans codes and stampings also check for the original BE rear axle code and if it's there get a pic or or at least pencil rubbing you can compare w/ other known genuine stampings also check fenders and tailpan for signs of emblems?.
Also try Googling the Vin as many of us here have tried to leave trails to real, fake or suspect cars on past threads here and elsewhere you may find online..

Best of luck and Happy New year!.

~ Pete

**William** · #5 12-31-2009, 07:48 PM

If the OE VIN-stamped MN or MO engine is gone and there is no factory paperwork there isn't anything left to rule it in as a COPO. Most of the required and standard COPO equipment was also present on an L78 Camaro SS. Here is some stuff to look for:

VIN: should be an 8 cylinder [124379] Norwood build no earlier than about N578xxx. Even that is a stretch; virtually all earlier COPOs were Yenkos.

Chassis: Should have power front discs [racers took 'em out], COPO-specific 12 bolt posi BE code axle. Lots of COPOs ended up with a 9-inch or a DANA 60. I have had 2 BE axles and known of several more. They aren't that tough to "create" so that is no longer an absolute indicator. All had dual exhausts and should have the hanger plate tack-welded to the LH rear frame rail.

Body: All had the ducted hood with factory wiring and holes. Optional on SS after 1/1/69. 4-speed must have Muncie-specific speedo cable routing.

Cooling: HD radiator with 90º upper hose connection. BB specific heater.

Body tag: Most are X44, some X11. A very few early Yenkos were X66 or X22. Cannot be X33, X55, X77. Some COPOs were ordered in groups and had consecutive 'NOR' numbers on the tag. Some of the groupings are known. But that does not apply to all of them by any means [not even the 50 Gibb ZL-1s] so if is not part of a group it doesn't rule it out.

Get data, pics, post here!

Keith Tedford · #6 12-31-2009, 08:05 PM

To add to the above post, it would appear that some BL code rearends have been turned into valuable BE units by entrprising people. I'd be looking for an unrestored original car and having it done. The chances of getting a legitimate restored car are getting more remote every day. You need ALL the documentation and still have someone with knowledge to check out the car itself. Even experts get fooled so go slowly.

Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars.