2004 Yukon XL Denali

[Lynn]

Bought an 04 Yukon XL Denali yesterday. One owner with 130,000 miles. Price was too good to pass up. Oil is as clean as can be, and the guy swears he NEVER has had to add oil between changes. As soon as it gets to the next 5000 mile interval, I will change the oil (that way I just change it every time the mileage is divisible by 5000). Plan to service the trans at the same time. Pretty sure the pan has never been off.

6.0 engine and AWD (like all the Denali Yukons). Dry as a bone underneath. No check engine light, and it runs and shifts perfectly. Vibration at 60, but I am certain that is the wheel/tire balance (and mismatch... three different brands of tires; only the front two match, but they are worn on the inside edge). The only malfunctions indicated so far are: “Service Tire Monitor System” and “Service Ride Control”.

Not pretty, as it has been parked outside most of it’s life and the clear coat is coming off. As I said, needs new tires, and have already ordered a set of Michelins for it. The fronts are serviceable, and only 3 years old, but still, I like a set of four quality matching tires. Also, not a huge fan of General tires.

I really don’t care about the cosmetics (can’t imagine shelling out $$$$ to paint a Yukon XL!!!) but obviously need it in good mechanical condition.

Bought is as a winter beater, a loaner for the kids when one of their cars is inop, and for occasionally towing my car hauler.

Before I even put tires on, I need to decide if I want to get new tire pressure sensors. My understanding is that ALL of them go bad after 10-15 years. They are available on RockAuto for about $22 each (Schrader brand). I am assuming that a tire shop, or general repair shop will have the right programmer to program the sensors to fit my vehicle. Sorry for my incredible ignorance on this, but my only vehicle with TPMS is less than three years old with good tires, so I have never had to deal with this. I see stuff about programmed, programable and cloneable. The Schrader is “programmed”.

Brake pads are a bit thin, and the park brake doesn’t hold at all. The cables retract; they just don’t pull the shoes far enough to engage the drums. I see the park brake uses shoes in a small drum integral with the rear rotor (like my old Bimmers and my 70 LT-1. That is probably a good thing. I remember the 80s where GM park brakes integrated with the rear discs started failing if not used regularly. And let’s face it; most folks with an auto trans aren’t going to set the park brake regularly. So, while I have the rotors off, I can check to see if the park brake shoes are just worn and need adjusting, or if there is some other issue.

Once I get tires mounted and balanced, and the front end aligned, I need to decide if I want to repair the Ride Control system. I see a lot of info about replacing that system, but ALL of them require EITHER that the rear of the vehicle sits higher than stock in the back (and I would have to buy aftermarket springs) OR that I put in an aftermarket air bag system in the rear for towing. It also has magnetic ride control, and it certainly LOOKS like the original shocks are on it. None leak, and all do well in a “bounce” test (although that can be deceiving). None of the tires are cupping, as happens when damping is not working at all for small movements.

I have not even diagnose it yet, but believe my course of action will be to diagnose the current system. Seems that the compressor is the first thing to go. If it is shot, I think it is worth $160 or so for a new one just to see how the system works. If that is the only issue, then I will stick with it.

Any GMC Denali gurus out there feel free to help get me pointed in the right direction, including information on the best transmission fluid to use.

[Crush]

Instead of painting, put a crazy wrap on it and some 22’s and a sub in the back ha!!
Anyway sounds like great WB. I just bought a WB as well, 05 Subaru . With a set of Blizzaks this thing can climb Mt. Everest !

[scuncio]

I have an 04 Silverado with 120k that I bought new that has been fairly reliable in areas, fairly unreliable in others. Weak points are brake rotors and calipers, brake line rust, Autotrac transfer case. The engine has been pretty reliable and I've only had to do the water pump once. The transmission may also be a sore spot - mine has been fine and I tow a car trailer fairly often - but I change the fluid pretty regularly which has kept the trans happy. I would worry if the trans fluid has never been replaced.

The shocks on the magnetic ride system are durable and I wouldn't want to replace them as they are expensive. Did you run the codes yet?

[Lynn]

Haven't run codes. Not even sure my cheapo scanner will run anything but engine codes. But, I won't do much today. 0 degrees here, and no heat in the shop yet!!!!

[RPOLS3]

Mag ride shocks are $$ as Tony mentioned. $3k-ish on my 18 Denali.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by scuncio

I have an 04 Silverado with 120k that I bought new that has been fairly reliable in areas, fairly unreliable in others. Weak points are brake rotors and calipers, brake line rust, Autotrac transfer case. The engine has been pretty reliable and I've only had to do the water pump once. The transmission may also be a sore spot - mine has been fine and I tow a car trailer fairly often - but I change the fluid pretty regularly which has kept the trans happy. I would worry if the trans fluid has never been replaced.

The shocks on the magnetic ride system are durable and I wouldn't want to replace them as they are expensive. Did you run the codes yet?

Ditto on the brake lines.

If they have not already been replaced I would recommend doing them all at once (not just the ones that look like they need replacement).

K

[dustinm]

Brake lines are a must. Even a coworker with a similar year F150 had rotted brake lines.

Trans and transfercase are maintenance items depending how previous owner operated the vehicle will determine the life left.
My favorite pickup was an 01 Z71 LT, it drove nice, had soft seats and I never had to replace any drivetrain components before I sold it at 230k

[MosportGreen66]

I have 67k on my ‘19 GMC Denali 2500 HD. Just did a control arm, idler arm, diff fluid flush, transfer case fluid flush, oil change, and full lube of front suspension with a wheel alignment. I did tires at about 62k. I think the majority of these rigs are the same. My mechanic uses all AC Delco fluids. I suggest them/never let me down. Our folks have a ‘11 Yukon Denali with 83k. Been outside it’s whole life… body is decently clean. I try to clay it and wax it a couple times a year. Chrome on wheels is shot. They just did brakes (rotors and calipers), we did a brake master, power steering system, water pump, alternator and more I’m sure I’m forgetting. Point being, any salt or brine on the roads, the rigs will rot. Some more than others, but finding a rust free, well maintained rig of any era/body style is hard to find today. Congrats on the new rig!

[Lynn]

Thanks. I expect to do a boat load of maintenance. But I got into it so cheap, that's fine with me.