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#11
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Quote:
As far as the driveshaft the aluminum is easier to accelerate as its rotating mass, my T/S car was faster with aluminum Last edited by rszmjt; 10-30-2023 at 12:44 AM. |
#12
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I have a Denny's HD steel driveshaft in my 67 Camaro and it has taken everything my 525 hp 406 has thrown at it with no problem. Lifetime warranty on U-joints as well.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c2_...iveshafts.html
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Camaro, 'Cuda, Super Bee, Duster, Blazer and some trucks |
#13
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#14
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Been looking into driveshafts for this and the length is an issue with critical rotational rpm. The shaft, itself, will be about 58" and at that length and a 6500 rpm speed, Denny's is the only one who will touch this. All the others drop out at about 52-4" for that rpm.
I just talked with their phone rep and I will, most likely, be ordering their 3.5" nitrous ready pro package with Mark Williams yokes on both ends. Their 4" aluminum isn't all that much more, but since I need new rear gears and stronger axles too, I'll stay with the steel. Thinking about Mark Williams for the gears and axles too. The Strange gears for street/strip warn they are susceptible to teeth breaking under heavy shock loads and not really suitable for drag racing with slicks...hmmm. I don't need to break them next, so will be talking with Mark Williams about their street/strip gears and axles soon. Need to decide if I want to modify the axle tubes for bolt in axles first...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#15
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Don’t forget that MW & Strange use different pressure angles on their splines so the differential (or spool) and axles must be both from the same manufacturer.
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
The Following User Says Thank You to markjohnson For This Useful Post: | ||
big gear head (12-20-2023) |
#16
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BTW, a Carbon Fiber driveshaft is expensive but is supposed to be worth a solid tenth. You may get to a point where the car is extremely close to breaking an ET barrier and wished you’d spent a little more money!
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
#17
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Quote:
Breaking the tail housing off at SCR was the least expensive part to replace.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#18
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They are the strongest and have infinite shaft speed, but are not at all abrasion resistant and not recommended for street car applications for that reason.
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#19
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You have to be sure that you have clearance for a larger diameter shaft. You don't want it rubbing on something like exhaust pipes or floor braces.
I doubt that you would need to go with c clip eliminators if you buy quality axles. C clip eliminators have their own set of problems when used on the street. For one thing they tend to leak oil on your brakes. Once you install c clip eliminators it's very hard to go back to original.
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Freddie 1969 Camaro RS/SS396 (427) 4 speed |
#20
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The nice thing about carbon is if you brake a U joint and the shaft hits the ground. It will not beat the bottom of the car up. I have a carbon shaft on a 4k lb car that makes 800 at the tires cutting a 1.39 60 with a carbon shaft.
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