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#11
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Thanks
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Rick |
#12
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Please don't use real NOS parts if you are building a tribute!
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Jeff M. ZL1 #49 (Dale, Waukesha WI) Super Stock restoration by SCW; 9561AA (Walters, Hebron OH) Super Stock motor by the Grump |
#13
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always bugs me to see tribute cars with Yenko/Z28/427 badge holes in fenders, hoods & tail panels. I'd easily pick a copo clone, with a clean, no holes body, over a car with holes drilled where they shouldn't be any
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#14
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It bugs me to see a original BE in a tribute/clone or whatever you want to call it. It adds no real value to the tribute car and constitutes a potential win for the builder. It would be one of the quickest ways to get upside down in a car.
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1969 Hugger Orange RS COPO (Sold) 1969 Garnet Red Z28 1969 Super Bee (Sold) 1965 Pontiac Lemans |
#15
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![]() ... I would build a black 1969 Camaro with a big block with a stinger hood ...... NO EMBLEMS .... NO STRIPES .... with a GOLD stinger hood painted to match the corvettes with the small pin stripe ..... Yea Baby ! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif[/img] |
#16
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Never used any BE's or 69 dated ZL-1 parts on my cars. Made no since. My feeling was, if it didn’t affect the way the car performed, looked or handled from the factory what’s the point. Parts with the correct casting numbers is what made the cars perform like the real thing. 69 date codes and BE rear ends don’t add a thing, except to the cost. …….Even then they’re still damn expensive to build.
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Rick |
#17
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Super_Z28</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think your right .... Its cheaper to build a "
real" car </div></div> I concur.
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Jersey Jeff 69 Day-2 L89 T400 BX 2015 ZL-1 Auto 98 Surburban |
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