Updated pics of my project

[m22mike]

Yes, the bottom "Lip" goes under the sheet metal and is visible from underneath the car.

Mike

[firstgenaddict]

Nice firewall detail Lynn! I love it!

[Lynn]

Thanks Mike. That is what I thought, and that is how I did it.

Have to admit the detail is a bit of a two edged sword. I really like getting things right, but it is easy to get so bogged down in details that I wonder if I will ever get it done.

Spent about 45 minutes this today removing and replacing the lower control arm bolts because they were in backwards according to the aim. Would they have worked OK that way? Of course, but I just couldn't leave them.

Despite all the original details, I am deviatiing quite a bit with the bolt ons. I did put some old Koni shocks in the front (the old GM shocks are pathetic). These Koni's are stiff stiff stiff, but provide more control. Also, and again, despite all the original details, I put some old S&S headers on last night. If I had known what a pita they were going to be I would have put the exhaust manifolds back on. Oh well, should run better anyway.

Will try and get some engine pics this weekend. May fire it up and break in the cam tomorrow or Sun.

Engine & tranny are sitting in there right now. Will install a driveshaft tomorrow.

[Lynn]

Promise to post some pics later today. A bit embarrassed about the current state. Have some nice dated wires, but not sure where they are, so put some Accell yellow ones on to get it running. Most of them are about a foot too long.
Missing one of the sqare drive pipe plugs in the front of the intake, so have a big plumbing pipe plug with an adapter in it. Lots of other details way off, but easily fixed.

But... would like some advice. Here is what I built for now. 69 L46 (posted pics of the inside of this engine a while back, really pristine standard bore motor). For those not familiar, 69 L46 has the same crank rods and forged pistons as a 70 LT-1. Just used a hydraulic cam, iron manifold and Q-jet.
Built this one with an LT-1 cam (Federal Mogul), 69 Z high rise and 4053, so it will at least LOOK like the correct motor, until someone sees the HW engine code.

Rigged up the batt and radiator (no front sheet metal right now) with a big fan in front of the radiator. Had already pre oiled it. Started right up and ran for about 10 min at 3000. Would have run 15 min at 3000 (what I normally do) but it started to overheat. Fan in front of the radiator is just not moving enough air. T-stat was wide open and had plenty of water flow.

Here is my question: Is a 10 min run at 3000 long enough for the new cam and lifters? Like I said, I usually run 15 min at 3000 to insure break in.

I have a big squirrell cage fan in the attic I can try today that may move more air. Part of me wants to make sure

My other option is to just go ahead and adjust the valves, check everything over and get it ready to put on the front clip

Sorry for the long post, but it can be frustrating trying to answer a question without enough info, so I would rather err on the side of too much info.

Heading out to the garage right now just to regroup. What a mess.

[SuperNovaSS]

You could always must water on the radiator with a spray bottle. The latent heat of evaporation will cool much quicker.

Jason

[Lynn]

Yeah, thought about that... after the fact.

So... any camshaft gurus out there?

Is my 10 min run at 3000 good enough?

[Lynn]

Got the front clip on tonight. We are expecting heavy freezing rain, possible hail, and if I wanted the bimmer in the garage, had to get the clip out of the way. Either that or put Sherri's bimmer outside. That ain't gonna happen.

I had to cut and buff the one part of the front fenders where the "Camaro" emblem goes before the install, because you can't access those nuts after the fender is on. I plan to hire a pro to buff the entire car after stripes are on. I wouldn't trust me at all with a high speed buffer and fresh lacquer!!!!

Nerve racking job installing the clip on a painted car. Of course, ended up with two chips (total bonehead move, long story), but both are repairable and pretty inconspicuous. Planning to wait until the front suspension is back under it and car is resting on the wheels & tires to do final gap adjustments. Preliminary looks pretty good.

Took a couple of pics of the pass fender where I buffed.
Also a couple of engine pics with the temporary air filter and the temp plug wires in place. Those yellow Accel wires look cool, so I may just leave them for a while.

[Xplantdad]

Lynn...Looks great!

[mockingbird812]

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] Nice! Thanks for the update.

[SuperNovaSS]

Sweet!