#11
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Yes, but GM did not design it that way. The trunk lock was always the round key.
Why go against the GM makers, LOL! Dan
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69 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Frost Green 69 SS396 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Lemans Blue SOLD 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Gulfstream Blue 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Burnished Saddle http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PM3DE8qI2NY https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn4xEmGypUw |
#12
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All of the original cores for the locks issued in each year had individual keyways back in the '70s and '80s. That means the cylinder was milled/grooved to accept a specific key section such as the following:
1969 Camaro Door Lock - Section E Keyway (Square Head Ignition Key Profile Only) Note: this matched the grooves of the ignition key in 1969. Key codes are found on original locks! 1969 Camaro Trunk Lock - Section H Keyway (Round Head Trunk Key Profile Only) Note: the glove box door was also grooved to match this key section and was keyed alike to the trunk in '69. These key sections A/B, C/D, E/H, J/K were used in each year beginning in the late '60s through the 1980s and were duplicated every 4 subsequent years. For example, E/H was used in 1969 and again every 4 years until they moved into the VATS and later key sections in the late 1980s. This is when Briggs & Stratton locks became part of the Strattec Corporation who make all of the electronic locks paired to smart keys today. In the late 80's they did away with the restricted key sections for the door lock service pack cores and the trunk lock service pack cores. This meant that the service pack cores had the milling inside the cores opened to accept any of the (8) key profiles. This effectively allowed them to make one core that could be used for any year as a service part. It was then used to service GM dealers and the automotive locksmith market through Briggs and Strattec Corp and remains that way today. The dust-keeper door was changed in the late '70s as a "redesign" specified by GM. This was for two reasons. One was because people would often try and put an aftermarket key into the locks and/or sometimes their house keys, and they would always get caught on the tab you are referring to where the shutter would then break off its locating pin and jamb inside the lock case. I used to see locks all the time with broken dust shields and this was the primary reason why. The straight cut flap was designed to negate the shutters being jammed and breaking inside the face cap when someone would enter a foreign key into the lock. Also, GM shortened the milling in the key blade in the mid to late '70s and newer keys would bind on the gate and also cause them to break. As said above, these newer styled dust shields have been this way for decades now. Even the factory coded door service pack and trunk service pack with "year specific milling" in the cores use these straight-cut door flaps and dust-keepers. Again, this has been the OEM spec since the change was implemented by GM and that was a long time ago. If you want to key your car to one specific key, you can now do that by using an uncoded service pack door or trunk core. This would allow you to recode a trunk lock and the glove box core to your current door/ignition key if you chose to do so. In fact, GM has been offering these features since the '70s as all police and emergency vehicles, military vehicles and fleet cars including taxi's had all locks coded to a single key. To answer this question for Chevyman0429 Quote:
I learned a lot of my craft from the best locksmiths to have ever practiced the craft. This included many courses from Len White (Briggs & Stratton Locks) and others like Hank Spicer. There were lots of drinking nights and stories shared between all of us back in the day. I hope this info services to help some of you with your locks and keys. A final word to the quality of original USA made locks and that of all the clones that have flooded the market in the past 10-15 years. All of the made in China clones that are now on the market from places like D&R and many other restoration resellers including eBay are cheap knock offs. None of these locks or keys are the same USA made quality that originally came from Briggs & Stratton (Strattec Corp). The USA originals have high nickel content in the keys, knock out codes with original stamps, original "valid" key codes and correct fonts with the original GM coining on the heads of the keys. The lock cases are also better quality castings and materials, and the faceplates and chroming process are of higher quality than any of the clones now being offered. Another thing to watch for with the clones is that many of the offshore locks use the exact same key section and key coding for large groups of locks. This means that the guy with the restored car using cheap lock kits may be parked next to another with the exact same locks and keys! Im out of here! (lol)
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. Last edited by NorCam; 01-27-2020 at 03:01 AM. |
#13
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I rebuilt ours in the Yenko but now use OEM ones from PY Classic locks (available through Ground Up) but remember to specify OE locks with the slots.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#14
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I saw Paul Spots post in another forum offering these lock kits. They are using the exact same locks I have been using and putting together for the past 20 years. The only thing different is they are using used original dust shields for anyone wanting them to look concourse correct down to the shutter door, but with the same cores I use. They are also using the staked caps for recoded door locks. These look fine when installed, but NCRS deducts points if the locks have been rekeyed and the cylinders do not have crimped on caps. I still have some coded pairs of NOS original door locks with staked on caps for those who want a perfect concourse set of locks. Just have to find them here.
It's nice to see other guys have picked up where I left off. I stopped offering these kits publicly about 15 years ago and used to sell a complete lock kit for $125 plus shipping back then. I only do them for people I know these days. It appears Paul is charging $60-$80 for the Ignition and Doors, and another $60-80 for the trunk and glove box. Here what they appear to be offering in terms of kits. Quote:
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. |
#15
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Dan excuse my ignorance but I for some reason or the other was thinking the door locks also used the round key! Lol
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1969 SS 396 300 deluxe post car 1969 SS 396 300 deluxe hardtop 1969 SS 396 chevelle 1978 chevy shortbed step side 1983 chevy shortbed 1985 chevy shortbed If a hammer and duct tape wont fix it u have electrical problems! |
#16
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GM moved to use the round key in the door locks and started coding the doors with the trunk locks in around 1971 if I recall correctly. They also stopped putting key codes on the lock case at this time as thieves learned that pulling a door lock would net them with the key code for the ignition as well. It was said that GM instructed B&S to change this in order to assist in cutting down on car thefts from keys being cut to code. I have forgotten so much of this stuff over the years that I opened a few of my old Briggs & Stratton technical manuals tonight and refreshed myself on a few service bulletins. The dust shield door itself is pushed open by the key and that gated slot in the shutter face used to fit the side milling of the key blade. Upon being fully inserted the key would park the dust shield at 90 degrees and it fits into an opening that was cast into the core of the lock. When GM and Briggs shortened the keys up in the late '70s, they also shortened the side milled groove in the keys and the dust shield had to be changed to eliminate the gate as it didn't work well with the shorter keys including most of the aftermarket blanks from Ilco and Curtis which would bind.
So it's now been about 45 years since they redesigned the dust shield shutter. If you use the original gated shutters with the newer or shortened key blanks, chances are it will bind and/or break inside the lock when you put the wrong blank into the lock. With that being said, if you're going to use the old original shutters, make sure you stick to using the older key blanks and not the newer ones with a shortened slot milled onto the side of the key blade. These old original keys are becoming harder to find nowadays so if you see some NOS GM key blanks, buy some and have them cut to code by your local locksmith. It's better to have them code cut rather than duplicated since code cutting is much more accurate on both the spacing and depths. Any good locksmith can code cut them just a fast and any duplicate key is cut. If you have your key codes it makes it even easier. Your car will love you for it.
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. Last edited by NorCam; 01-27-2020 at 10:55 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to NorCam For This Useful Post: | ||
m22mike (01-27-2020) |
#17
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Anyone ever find any Rochester Products NOS blanks? I need a trunk key for 68. My car had one B&S and one RP, I still have the coded originals but would like a duplicate.
BIG |
#18
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Info concerning 68 keys and locks from our master locksmith including orig tool to punch cut keys as originally. https://www.camaros.net/threads/time...ost-1783083619
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68,69&2015 Z/28's 69 L78 Nova Purchased new 32k miles 69 Restored Nova L34 Father/Son Few Corvettes Our 68 Z/28 Build thread- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584 |
#19
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Those are Curtis #14 clippers and they are not how the keys were originally cut. Original keys were cut on an automatic code machine. I stopped using those clippers back in the 80's when they were replaced by Curtis #15 clippers.
The clippers actually cut the keys at a 45 degree angle and the cuts are then beveled. Code machines cut a much better key. Just an FYI
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. |
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