Motor oil info

[WILMASBOYL78]

[ QUOTE ]
On BBC's w/flat tappets, it's *imperitive* to only break them in on the outer springs, or a set of actual break in springs...

[/ QUOTE ]

I've heard of this before..is it really that "imperative" ??

wilma

[Belair62]

Good practice...few people do it...you roll the dice on full spring pressure.

[JRSully]

The guy who is breaking in my new, stock L78 motor said "YOU MUST" use only the outer spring for break in and insists on the 25w-50 Pennzoil race oil because it has a lot of zinc in it, he was up on this a long time ago, told me about the additives being left out of most oils these days except the race oils. He also went on to say that the factory break in GM product EOS, doesn't have the additives it used to. Just one man's opinion, but 30 years experience... SULLY

[NCGuy68]

Here in NASCAR country, many top notch engine builders assemble the motors in race or street condition and run them as is. No break-in required. They Highly recommend a true, 100% synthetic oil such as Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc, along with a high quality filter.

Its easy to make horsepower - can you make it last for 500 miles?

[Chevy454]

Knock on wood, I've been running Syntec for a few years with good luck...

[camarojoe]

OK so what is the recommendation for oil brand for a standard oil change on a flat tappet motor?.. not a break in, or fresh engine, but for regular usage.

[Salvatore]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
On BBC's w/flat tappets, it's *imperitive* to only break them in on the outer springs, or a set of actual break in springs...

[/ QUOTE ]

I've heard of this before..is it really that "imperative" ??

wilma

[/ QUOTE ]Absolutely!

[Belair62]

Joe I asked a local excellent engine builder that question to day...he shrugged his shoulders...there are no additives that are really worth a damn ...He actually rarely builds a flat tappet motor anymore. All rollers for the most part. It's important to know that it is mosy critical on break in though. Rollers are unaffected but I think we may need zinc in these old engines....are there any engine builders on this board that can shed some light ? I know the racing oild have some zinc in it still and also Rotella oddly enough.

[VintageMusclecar]

(yes, I'm posting this at 3:45 a.m. ain't insomnia a wonderful thing? )

For those of you who aren't familiar with this site...

Everything you ever wanted to know about oil but were afraid to ask

Rob is correct about BBC's (and just about any other engine for that matter) and break-in with flat tappet cams. It's a little more work to re-install the inner springs once break in is complete, but it beats the h*ll outta pulling the engine back down because of a wiped cam. You'd be suprised how much damage that material does to bearings, cranks, piston skirts and cylinder walls.

(Of course, if you have an extra $700+ burning a hole in your pocket, Schubeck lifters are an option. Just drop these in and go racing, no break-in needed.)

Oh, fwiw...

There's some worthwhile power to be had with synthetic oil. How much? Depends on the oil.

Food for thought: I personally know of one big block Chrysler bracket engine that was switched from 50-weight racing oil to a fairly thin name-brand synthetic.

After the engine had fully warmed up with the synthetic oil in it, the owner found the idle speed had increased by roughly 300 rpm.

"Things that make you go hmmmmm"

Eric

[Pantera]

Just to bring up a different thought on the std -> or syn oil problem. I know on the Valkyrie Riders motorcycle forum, this question came up often. It was recommended that a new motor was broke-in on std oil for 5k to 10k miles and then switched to syn oil.

There was a problem with oil ring blowby when it was not done that way. It was felt the rings could not break in properly with syn oil. The zink cam lobe issue was not considered a problem though.


Pantera