The Crusty Cuda: Whole lotta Shakin' (N96) Goin' on!

[cook_dw]

If its like a GM when the key is inserted with the door open the horn relay with buzz. If you here a clicking then it might be that the contacts are stuck and not allowing it to make the "buzzing" sound.

[RS_COPO_Canuck]

Maybe put a volt meter on the coil and see what's going on through the cycle.
If all else fails, hang an Aztec worship doll over the engine.

[markinnaples]

Just make sure that it's not this

[A12pilot]

See, that’s what I was actually getting ready to do, Jim! The Aztec worship doll, that is.

Man....I love that episode!

Cheers
Dave

[napa68]

As the risk of being that guy who has not read the thread in detail and repeating something you have done or was suggested....................have you monitored the voltage coming into the ballast resistor?

It is possible the circuit is getting heated up and dropping voltage. Just a thought.

I can appreciate your frustration. The problem seems so simple in nature (as these are simple cars) but you get so pissed off that you are ready to throw the kitchen sink at it and get away from the basics to diagnose.

My apologies if I have repeated something

Keep you chin up. You do nice work Dave and are a real asset to this site!

Tim

[A12pilot]

Thanks, Tim. No apologies necessary my friend. I’ve monitored that voltage and didn’t notice any drops but have not monitored it when it stumbles and dies. As soon as I say to myself, “Welp, seems that’s not the problem...” and disconnect things then (chugga chugga wheeze). I’m going to recheck this again when I get back though just to confirm it. That is, if I can get it started again!

Been researching some more and not really finding any other info comparable to what’s going on with my car. I’m going to start back again with voltage monitoring and possibly some sort of short in my new harness somewhere. I’ll get this. Then ROAST those F70s ‘till they go “poof”

Cheers
Dave

[njsteve]

You mentioned that the engine and dash harnesses were new, I think?

Remember when I restored the 1972 Trans Am? I bought a brand new wiring harness from M&H Harnesses and it turned out they left out the resistance wire that was supposed to be there for reducing the voltage to the points. Turned out it was punching 13+ volts in to the points at all times, and frying them and the condenser after about five minutes of running. Once they gave me a new harness it worked fine - and they even warrantied the harness two years after I bought it.

Did you buy the engine harness for the 340 with electronic ignition or with points ignition? Could be a similar issue with incompatible wiring. Do you have the part # handy?

IIRC, the Cuda uses the firewall-mounted ballast resistor to do the same thing. I always carried a half dozen around in my glove box because they would go bad - either totally fried or heat related partial failures. You may have to go with a baker's dozen of them.

[chevelleshack]

Not much of a mopar guy but does it have the heat crossover in the intake ? Had the same problem with a SBC & ended up being percolation of the fuel in the bowls & would boil over due to today's less than stellar fuel. Had the same symptoms also . Blocked off the heat passages & all was good after that .

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by chevelleshack

Not much of a mopar guy but does it have the heat crossover in the intake ? Had the same problem with a SBC & ended up being percolation of the fuel in the bowls & would boil over due to today's less than stellar fuel. Had the same symptoms also . Blocked off the heat passages & all was good after that .

Wow, that reminds me: A friend had a 440 Challenger and it turned out there was an internal crack in the exhaust crossover from the crossover to the inside of the intake runner. When it got warmed up, the crack would enlarge and create an enormous internal vacuum leak, killing the engine.

Got any extra intakes?

[A12pilot]

Good suggestions, men! But no, those aren’t the root of the issue that’s causing this drama, unfortunately. I’ve already replaced the ballast multiple times with several on hand, and the heat crossover, while a good suggestion, isn’t it either. My guess is still an electrical short somewhere that I’m just not finding but then again, maybe that new fuel pump is causing the issue? I doubt it since it’s keeping the filter full.

Remember;
- several ballasts used
- two different carbs (brand new/rebuilt)
- two new coils
- everything new in the wiring harness
- two set of plug wires, two distributors (one dual point, one single point)
- everything new on the fuel system

I’m going to bust out that voltmeter and check a bunch of things when I get back next week now that I’ve had time away from it and can think clearly! That is, until Steve dangles that a Voodoo doll over this thread again!

Cheers
Dave