Oh Lordy, I now own a Fordy (a Lincoln actually)..

[njsteve]

It's gonna be a major project to install that new clock since the dash is so complicated in terms of fasteners. I found that out when installing the factory AM/FM a couple years ago.

[njsteve]

I received the ORIGINAL invoice from Marti Auto. They have the original invoices from specific assembly lines and will sell you your original document as long as you provide them with a copy of the title or registration to prove you have the car. Look at that window sticker price: $8,585 !!!

[njsteve]

Here's the preliminary Marti Report. I ordered the Elite version which comes framed with a window sticker and other stuff. Due to be delivered in a couple months.

[njsteve]

I spent the afternoon installing the working replacement clock and ran into some interesting finds.
1) original clock doesn't work
2) original clock is deep fried
3) Portions of the printed dash circuit relating to the aforementioned deep fried clock are melted.

Here's some photos. I am constantly thanking my grandfather Simon for buying all the factory repair manuals for this car back in 1971. It listed the steps taken and fasteners that needed to be removed to get the dash pad out and then the lower gauge cluster. Very informative in terms of instructions! Compare that to the similar vintage Mopar manuals which would say something like: Step 1: Open car door. Step 2: Remove gauges. Step 3: Repair gauges. Step 4: Reverse procedure. Step 5: Close car door.

Once I got the original clock out and saw that it was toasted, I temporarily installed the new clock but it was not getting any power. So I pulled the entire gauge pod and found out that the printed circuit was melted in at least three places along the "hot" route to the clock. It is nice of Ford to list their part numbers on everything on this car. Very helpful: D0VF-10C956. Of course there aren't any out there but I'll start looking anyway. I did see a guy selling the entire dash instrument panel for $1,400 on ebay. LOL. When I looked at the close ups I could see similar burn marks on his printed circuit as well.

My solution was to disconnect the original bad clock terminal ends on the printed circuit and cover them with electrical tape. I then routed a hot wire and a ground wire from the gauge terminals to the fuse box and the dash frame, and the clock immediately started running and keeping accurate time, clicking every 55.7 seconds to rewind. While I was in there I checked all the dash bulbs and miraculously, they were all still good.

[scuncio]

Nice repair. Those early printed circuits are scary.

[njsteve]

That was a frightening discovery. Luckily it didn't fry the entire car. It happened at least 34+ years ago because the clock never worked as long as we have had the car (circa 1991).

[njsteve]

YAY! My Holy Grail parts arrived today. I actually found a set of NOS rear tail light/bumper upper and lower moldings for the car. The original lower molding was badly damaged by the giant "J.C. Whitney" rear bumper guards my Grandfather had installed for battle in Manhattan back in the 1970's. He retired undefeated (except for the self-inflicted, crush wounds on the aluminum molding.)

My next project will be removing the entire rear bumper assembly (all 100+ lbs. of it!) to swap out the moldings. The upper one screws in from the outside, no problem. But the lower molding is installed from behind and below and is completely concealed from access when installed on the car.

I can't say enough about Will McDonald Obsolete Parts in Rockport, IL. https://mcdonaldparts.com/. I found him through a search of the part numbers and after falling down a rabbit hole of links, was able to find his website. I emailed him and within 10 minutes on a Tuesday night, he responded that he had the lower molding and sent me "proof of life" photos that verified he had the right piece. He told me a reasonable price $125 plus shipping in a PVC pipe, (an idea he actually recommended even before I had to).

While I had him on the phone, I asked if he had the upper molding as well: If I'm doing the surgery, I might as well replace both. (The two curved side moldings are fine, so I don't need those). He did a quick check and found the upper molding in his inventory as well for another $110. He was able to combine them in one 4'x4" PVC pipe. It just arrived today.

I can't tell you how long we have been looking for that lower molding. At least three and a half decades at last count! The puzzle was solved when I was able to stumble across a parts diagram last weekend that was mislabeled as a 1973 to 1979 bumper diagram and that was how I found the part numbers: D1VY-17C796 and D1VY-17C772. (1970 to 1973 used the same rear bumper).

While I'm at it, I might as well fix that one pesky tail lamp socket that keeps blinking in and out of service, since you also have to remove the bumper to pull the tail lamp housings.

[RPOLS3]

Steve - some of the guage repair/restoration places will fix the old printed circuit boards if you can't find a suitable replacement.

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by RPOLS3

Steve - some of the guage repair/restoration places will fix the old printed circuit boards if you can't find a suitable replacement.

Anyone you recommend?

[RPOLS3]

I've used these guys before as they are local to me - they have my original Chevelle gas tank sending unit now for restoration. They fixed the cicuit board for the Chevelle as well in addition to numerous clocks.

https://www.clocksandgauges.com/

if you google "automotive printed circuit board repairs" there are others that come up that me be more specialized