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  #21  
Old 06-15-2017, 02:21 PM
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One last thing while hijacking my own thread...this is what inspires me! (nuff said)







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  #22  
Old 06-15-2017, 02:21 PM
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And a little dose of this...







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  #23  
Old 06-15-2017, 04:34 PM
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My vote..... (I am an A-Body guy so maybe I can't vote for Pony cars?)

My vote is go for it, cut the floor, drive the car, race the car, enjoy the car. You will get 10 thumbs up for driving it vs 1 thumb up at a car show.

The original owner of my Cutlass put in a Super Shifter and the hole wasn't cut too much, I intend to make one hump for Super Shifter, and or RamRod and one hump for the stock Competition Plus. I will make either bolt in so I can switch from DAY-1 to DAY-2.

Ryan.
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #24  
Old 06-15-2017, 06:30 PM
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That's a great idea Ryan. Cut the floor cleanly. Flange the edges and make a couple professionally made filler plates that secure with Zeus fasteners to allow a quick change between a Super shifthole and a stock hole conversion.

We're onto something here ��
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  #25  
Old 06-15-2017, 06:42 PM
rszmjt rszmjt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCam View Post
So called Day II?

Lakewood 3 point roll bar, a good set of Stahl Headers, Moroso Tach (cable driven on the dash even), Mr. Gasket, Mallory or Accel dual point CD dizzy, aftermarket shifter (cut and diced in), Slapper Bars (bright yellow), Drag Wheels (Centerlines, Cragars, or Street Tricks) and some old M&H Racemasters with Pizza Cutters on the front. Next stop, pick a solid cam from the bottom of the page and work the hell out of the heads with some Harland Sharp rockers and a set of guide plates w/ studs. That's what I'm talking about. Day II, Year II...I don't care which style applies or what you want to call it, it's freakin cool on these cars and was right for the 70's and the early 80's. Kym Miller certainly didn't care that he was hacking and stick welding all over his original sheet metal, so why should I be concerned?

Might be worse to keep it as a clean polished car that seldom gets driven or thrashed on while it sits tucked away in the confines of a heated shop. Life speeds on by here buddy...and we gotta have fun while we're here with the living. When's the last time this car went down the track or had some Day II performance goodies on it. In fact, when's the last time if was taken out and thrashed on? Don't hate on me for wanting what I still think is cool on these cars. Too many of these cars are over restored, under appreciated, and parked to collect dust I say

I'm taking a page from Grady, Dans & Mikes book. Mine's going Day II



When Kym Miller cut up your car it was just another new GM 1969 Camaro what happened to be a Z28 bare bones muscle car that was mass produced and readily available back then and probably had a retail value of around $4,200. These days when 69 Z28 collector and other muscle cars bring over $125,000 K+, I just question the Sanity of cutting up a recently restored and returned to original condition un hit, not rusty 69 Z28 with Canadian docs and 22,000 miles to boot. You spent countless $$ to put new floor pans etc in just to go and butcher it again? Its your car, do with it what you will and enjoy it if that's what turns your crank, I don't care. Guess you can re restore it again at a later date.

Yes I have not driven my own Z28 since Sept/2014, but it will see the streets again, and I assure you that it wont be all hacked up to day 2 trim. I did hot rod the car back in the 70,s but with just bolt on parts, no hacking, and I retained all the original stuff which went back on it in the mid 80,s, after I got tired of tickets and not going fast enough with a double duty street driven racer, that's when I got into real race cars.

I am done with this post.
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  #26  
Old 06-15-2017, 06:51 PM
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Just spoke to a fabricator I know and he said he will make me two plates for the car. He can cut the hole and roll the edges, and he'll then fabricate two sheet metal plates to encompass a Super Shifter or RamRod, and a second that snaps in to put it back to stock using Zeus clips to secure it.

At the same time, he'll fab a remake of the Lakewood 3 point roll bar that I'll secure with one of the new epoxy's so I can heat it up and remove it without any cutting or grinding should I want to take it out down the road. Add new carpet (cheap) and it's right back to stock if I want the stock shifter and console back in there.

Thanks for chiming in Ryan. Now I have to find a nice clean restored shifter as I missed out on Tim's RamRod yesterday.
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Last edited by NorCam; 06-15-2017 at 06:58 PM.
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  #27  
Old 06-15-2017, 07:19 PM
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I bought a chunk of 4 speed Cutlass floor for the 4 speed hump. I cut this way bigger than the original torch cut (Oldsmobile) opening in the floor and now bought a spot weld cutter to remove the half of the original hump left. This will allow me to use this hump on top of the floor with my original shifter.
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #28  
Old 06-15-2017, 07:25 PM
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For the Super Shifter and RamRod I plan to use a................................................. ......................... oh wait for it......................................... 1969 Chevelle hump :-) I know that will make somebody upset:-) this will also bolt down using the same holes in place of the stock hump:-)

That is a lot of humping, and a lot of shifting.

Ryan
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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