New Shop

[dannystarr]

As far as door openers...I wanted to go side mount. One where the first lift is going to start, far left. Then maybe side mount on all the rest one a month. I made a slight miscalculation. I no longer have enough room for openers on the 2 center doors. The steel I-beam is in the center. One will fit on each end door. But the middle 2 will need to be mounted lower, then have a pulley chain drive go up to the shaft. I designed it to have 2 feet in between each door. But it doesn't trim-out like that. I'll post a couple pics later today...

As far as inspection. I forgot to mention... When he came back out, I saw him coming, so I popped the meter back off. Then he looked at it and said it all looks good. HE put the meter back and grabbed the telescopic pole and through the breaker/fuse at the transformer back on. So no separate inspection. But can't say if that was the norm or not, so don't use my story as an example. D

[1967 4K]

I was just curious about the meterbase. In my area if the utility company turns power off to a service they won’t turn it back on until an electrical inspector has okayed the work that took place. An extra 75 bucks to your job.
Regulations regarding electric service is different in many states across the U.S.A..

Be safe, turn it off!

[dannystarr]

SS427 thanx for picture corrections!

Getting started running power. Touch working off a 10' ladder. Pulled MC cable around to the man door. Getting a box ready with 2 switches. One for inside LED's and outside door light. Someone gave me a $500 roll of 12/3 in 1986. FINALLY have a place to use it. Probably cost $80 back then...LOL Came out of the man door box and up to mount 4 boxes for the lights. All 8 on one circuit will work. Got 3 done, last one today. THEN I can plug all the lights in and take down all the extension cords. ALL outlets 20amp. Even the switches are heavy duty 20amp. There will be no 14-gauge wire or 15amp outlets. I used full gang boxes with single outlet for more room in the box. Makes things a little easier in the air. I use the blue rubber protectors around the outlet, especially in metal boxes. Just an added safety thing. D

[dannystarr]

Once all 8 lights are functioning... then I will start to run 220V to the lifts wired in series. I won't be using more than one at a time, so one leg will be fine. Same with the door openers. I may run all those off one circuit. I have what will be 25 outlets all around the shop. One every 5 feet. I may break those up into 2 breakers. It's not like I will be welding, then running the drill press, then the wire wheel etc. all at the same time. So no overload, it's just me. D

[dannystarr]

Finished wiring all light boxes, got them all plugged-in, and hit the breaker. BAM!! Almost good enough for surgery.
8 - 2,400 Lumens. First picture no lights, second picture with camera flash. Third picture with all 8 lights. No more headlamp. Time to start wiring outlets, lifts etc.... D

[dannystarr]

Saw one of these heavy-duty racks by a bunch of dumpsters. I asked if they were dumping it, the lady said yes. So I strained my balls and got it in my truck. Next thing I start seeing them out there every couple days. So my girlfriend and I started loading them. I ended up with 7 total. They are SLICK! They hold thousands of pounds. And roll like butter. Some are 3 shelf, some are 2. I organize tools on one, and materials on a couple others. I looked them up and they are 800 to $1,000 EACH! I wheel them around as I move around the shop. WAY better than a table. D

[dannystarr]

https://www.shoplet.com/Global-Indus...iABEgIKAvD_BwE

[dannystarr]

Got 12 boxes trimmed out and tested, all good. Now ready to start the other 12. Prefabbed up a bunch to get a jump on assembly trim-out.
Yes outlets are upside down, ground up on purpose. Anybody guess the reason why? Danny

[dannystarr]

Well, I finished the other 12 or so outlets. Dug another shorter ditch between the 2 buildings. I ran 2" flex in that ditch along with a 1/2" soft copper air line. I can pull power through that flex for my Mini-Split Heat/Air unit. So I can come off the 200amp main panel and save power in the new shop 100amp sub panel.My girlfriend bought me a 48,000btu unit.

https://www.premiumhomesource.com/pr...SABEgIonPD_BwE

So the double compressor mounts out side. Then there will be 2 wall units inside both 24,000btu's each. It says it will work for about 18,000 cubic feet. My shop is probably about 18 or 19,000 cu ft. 30 X 50 X about 12 = 18,000 cu ft. Going to run power from main panel to disconnect box, then into unit. I bought an extra 50' line set. So one wall unit on each side wall. Too much work and money to get the radiant heat going. And it's only heat. This will be heat and air cond.
I am putting the compressor in the small shop. It is insulted with closed cell spray foam. Then 25' or so away in the new shop will be the outlet. That way I don't have to listen to it turning on/running. I might be able to hear it some, but it won't be like having it a few feet away... LOUD.
Paid $6,500 for closed cell spray foam insulation in the new shop. 2" on the ceiling and 1-1/2" on the walls. So this should be a big help with temperature control. Getting excited... D

[Too Many Projects]

That foam looks great, but where do you live that you can get by with 2" ?? I blew in 24" of fiberglass in my ceiling.
I think you have enough outlets...

I bought a mini split for my shop a few months ago too. Gets way to hot to work in during the summer. Hope to get it installed next year.