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#291
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In that area between that orange line & the tie down slot is where the yellow date might be....Joe
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1968 Z/28 Corvette Bronze. Black Hounds Tooth. 02E Los Angeles born 3/13/1968 pnt OO 1969 SS396 Yellow/Yellow 08E Norwood born 8/28/1969 pnt 76E 1970 'cuda Moulin Rouge, 440-6, 4 speed |
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NorCam (02-26-2020) |
#292
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In case it helps, just found some more images of driver side frame markings in this CRG thread:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11678
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Tim in NSW, Australia 1969 Van Nuys 04A Z/28 from Clippinger Chevrolet. Cortez Silver with dark blue interior. Ran at Lions Dragstrip and Pomona Raceway, with paint by Bob Kovacs of Fresno. |
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NorCam (02-27-2020) |
#293
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Here's a picture of the frame rail on Skip's late 69...Joe
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1968 Z/28 Corvette Bronze. Black Hounds Tooth. 02E Los Angeles born 3/13/1968 pnt OO 1969 SS396 Yellow/Yellow 08E Norwood born 8/28/1969 pnt 76E 1970 'cuda Moulin Rouge, 440-6, 4 speed |
The Following User Says Thank You to X66 714 For This Useful Post: | ||
NorCam (02-27-2020) |
#294
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#295
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Hey Graham, looks like your having fun. Mine is almost ready for the paint shop. Thought you might like these 'X" markings I found inside both fenders and also the lower valance. I need to go look at the frame again for the others.
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Rob 1969 Camaro Z/28. Norwood 02D. Lemans Blue |
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NorCam (02-27-2020) |
#296
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Graeme,
Not that you are deeper into this project, what is your preference for removing the "fluff paint"? Anything you would stay away from? Enjoying the project as always! What ya buying next? Tim |
#297
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Hey Tim,
As I might have mentioned, the stuff I've been using is Lloyds fight back graffiti remover, and it works excellent when removing a layer or two of spray paint from the undercarriage and suspension. It can be bought in a spray can or bulk form. I've used about 4 spray cans on this car and I am nearly finished. Spraying in control bursts I applied the spray pattern to a small 12" x 12" area at a time and let it set up for 1 to 2 minutes. I then used a white (ultra-fine) and/or green (fine) Scotch Brite pad to work the area in either a directional or circular motion to move the spray paint around while it was being softened by the chemicals. I could see the chemicals softening the paint as I worked it and was careful to keep the work area wet where the chemical also became the lubricant for the pad. This also kept the strokes from being too aggressive. Just a light scuff with the pad was all that was needed to work through the softened spray paint while it was still wet. Getting the area wet and letting the product set up for 1-2 minutes was the key as it began to break down each layer of spray paint. It also served to soak and lubricate the Scotch Brite pad and this keeps the process from getting too aggressive or working beyond a single layer of paint at a time. Once it started to thicken or dry I would quickly rinse it down and wipe it off using clean cotton rags. The product calls for a water rinse to neutralize the chemicals. I tried that but it didn't serve well to remove the paint as it started to dry and it seemed to gum up and became tacky again. I switched to using brake clean from a commercial pump sprayer and this was far better at removing all contaminants in a simple swipe. I would then hit it with one more rinse using brake clean which cleaned each area very nicely. As a safety precaution, I would often open the overhead and shop man doors to air out the shop of any fumes as they build quickly. Concerned with shop safety, I also wore a full face (dual cartridge) respirator mask and good rubber gloves. I also made sure the furnace was off and any source of spark was eliminated prior to using any of these products. It would be better using these chemicals outdoors or in a better environment, but being that it's winter up here and temps are kind of cold, I was working in a heated 3 bay garage that I use for my personal workshop. In any case, you can see from the results here that this product is excellent to soften up and remove any spray paints from the original surfaces and produces excellent results. Not everyone is comfortable with brake clean for rinsing things down, but I thought it was better than many other solvent-based products and worked effectively for this project. Here's the link to a technical datasheet for Lloyd's product. https://www.lloydslaboratories.com/w...ti-Remover.pdf You can buy it in a spray bomb as seen below, or you can buy it in a bulk container and dispense from a large pump-action spray bottle. Just be sure you wear gloves and eye protection. It claims to be a fairly safe chemical and is biodegradable but it states that the spray mist should not be inhaled. Again, I chose a mask to avoid breathing in any fumes or mist caused by the spray, and also wore a mask that integrates full eye protection. A must for working under the car and also while spraying brake cleaner. Better safe than sorry is what I like to practice.
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. Last edited by NorCam; 03-03-2020 at 11:27 PM. |
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#298
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I'm at a bit of a standstill right now as debate the direction I am continuing with on the front end. The previous black paint and fluffing it received prior, really sucked. Whoever did it sprayed over the top of grease and dirt in many areas including the front suspension and the subframe. Now that I've cleaned the floors and all of the hard lines from the back of the car forward, it's really looking good underneath the car, and that's where my dilemma kicks in.
My concern was with the front subframe and the suspension but that may be behind me now (lol). I've already detailed the rear diff and cleaned up the frame rails which are miles ahead of what it looked like before. In cleaning the front suspension it really dialed it back to a more natural look, but that made for a mismatch with the rest of the car which has already been repainted with the engine and peripherals already rebuilt. Floors look completely natural now and they are fine like that, but the front subframe and control arms didn't match the rest of the car so I changed direction and gave it some freshening with a mild restoration of sorts. Sparingly applied, I dusted the front suspension and K member and blew in some black paint to dress them up and have the car looking a bit more consistent. Not what the purists want to see (I can hear their teeth grinding) but it's now done on one side and taken in the direction of a soft restoration where I couldn't leave bare metal and the original finish exposed. In either case, I'm rebuilding the front calipers right now and they will go back on once I have finished cleaning up the dust shields and caliper brackets from the driver's side. Not trying to make it look restored or rebuilt, just a light mist of flat and semi-flat blacks to clean it up and cover any bare spots I dialed back. In the end, I think I'm going to keep this car and will be much happier seeing it like this than having a bunch of exposed metal around an area that's already restored such as the engine and the repaint of the car. In either case...I think I'm OK with this now. Took a few days to settle with me but I think I made the right choice for the car being what it is. Here are a couple of shots of the passenger side suspension after I cleaned it up, and a shot after blowing some fresh black paint onto it. At least the area was cleaned and prepped this time around. All the dirt and grease were washed away before I fogged it black again. (really I am still on the fence about it) If it doesn't sit well when I'm done, I can always dial it back again. Dilemmas dilemmas. (lol)
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. |
#299
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That's nice, but I think I liked it better before the black paint. Can't you use some of those products that Rick Nelson uses to protect bare metal on the frame? Maybe use some of that rust remover that he uses to take the rust off and then coat it with the metal protector? For some reason the names of those materials won't come to mind.
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Freddie 1969 Camaro RS/SS396 (427) 4 speed |
#300
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I feel your pain brother. Went through this same process of deciding which way to go. Ultimately decided on full resto...I’d be lying if I said I never second guessed that decision. Your car is/will be awesome no matter which path you take.
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SOLD 1969 427 COPO Camaro Lemans Blue/Black, M22 4 speed, 15,800 original miles Last edited by R68GTO; 03-04-2020 at 11:18 PM. Reason: spelling |
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