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  #71  
Old 03-11-2023, 10:40 PM
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Smile Moroso (Baldwin) race filter

Since we've segued to the topic of Baldwin filters, here's a Moroso #22460 race filter (Baldwin) cut apart. Draw your own conclusions, but this is my filter of choice:

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  #72  
Old 03-11-2023, 11:38 PM
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Back to the build...

The ignition system I have is based upon an MSD 7AL buzz box and a simple matching MSD canister coil. But to trigger it, I did something different. The new kids who look after tech at MSD are aghast...(seriously)...like "that'll never work"...even though the instruction sheet for the 7AL2 clearly shows how to wire it for a point trigger distributor....L-O-L. I use a point trigger Delco to tell the MSD when to fire. There are reasons for this: The old Delco point distributors were (and are) extremely stable when properly setup. When properly setup, they're stable at 7,000 RPM. They are also very reliable. When used to trigger a buzz box, there is no need for a condenser. All the point set does (and you can only use a single point distributor) is to act as a switch. With this setup, points last almost forever. And the big deal is, I don't have to rely upon an often shaky electronic trigger mechanism (fact: way back when, when I owned a couple of speed shops, we actually warrantied more Mallory Unilite electronic distributors than we sold). Here's the overall setup out of the car:



The basic Delco I used was a super low mileage job from a 307 and as a result, the bushings were perfect. First things first, I set the end clearance. They're regularly way off GM spec and I have to shim them:



Upstairs, I limit the amount of mechanical advance:



I use one set of ACCEL performance (not race) points. Note no condenser:



I usually use Moroso weights and springs. For this application (with an automatic) I want the curve to come in quickly, so I use the lightest springs:



Some might scoff, but I still like to use a vacuum advance setup on a street car. It just makes sense, especially when cruising at a constant speed. This is an old Crane setup I used, and it's adjustable. I set it for the least amount of vacuum advance.



With a steel cam (roller) and a steel drive gear on the cam, you either need a bronze distributor gear or a melonized gear. I prefer the melonized gear. FYI, Chevy uses them on their roller cam crate engines:



Upstairs, I prefer the old ACCEL caps and rotors. They're heavier and more robust than the new MSD pieces:



This is the finished distributor (less the melonized gear...which was installed later):



My intake manifold choice posed a real problem. The intent was to use a Weiand Strip Warrior single plane. But it clearly wouldn't allow the hood to close. I wasn't about to use any sort of hood scoop and I wasn't about to sacrifice filter area. Here's the Weiand in the car:



I needed something shorter, but there are some really issues: Stock big block Chevy intakes have a bolt hole over each siamese intake runner. Most aftermarket heads like the Brodix BB3's I use don't have the corresponding hole. Here's a look at an intake for a stock Chevy head layout:



If you place an intake gasket for a Brodix BB3 Xtra head over the manifold, this is the result...Incredible vacuum leak...L-O-L:



Because of all of this, the options aren't that great: Weld the offending bolt holes in an intake (that will fit) or find an intake that does work. In truth, there is only one out there, and it's about to be discontinued, simply because it costs lot of $$$. It's a Brodix dual plane intake. Here it is, side by side with the Weiand:



I suspect there's a pretty good power loss with the Brodix although Scott Shaffiroff's testing has proven it's not really that bad. On the car, it's easy to see it can clear the flat hood:



Here's the intake on the 565-cid big block. I sure can't complain about the throttle response...It's over the top. In fact, the big block rotates the tach like a hot small block.



That's it for this episode...Stay tuned for more...
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  #73  
Old 03-12-2023, 01:37 AM
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"Some might scoff, but I still like to use a vacuum advance setup on a street car. It just makes sense, especially when cruising at a constant speed. This is an old Crane setup I used, and it's adjustable."

Agree. Even though mileage isn't a huge concern for you (given 565 cubes) why leave anything on the table?
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  #74  
Old 03-12-2023, 02:45 PM
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Thanks for all of the detailed info, Wayne!
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  #75  
Old 03-12-2023, 07:54 PM
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Thanks for all of the detailed info, Wayne!
It's like watching a "how to" manual!

Last edited by BJCHEV396; 03-13-2023 at 04:02 AM.
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  #76  
Old 03-15-2023, 10:09 PM
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With the engine done, I was ready for the transmission and converter. Trouble was, those pieces were on a big wait list from ATI. They were roughly 100 custom transmissions behind. And since I'm a big fan of ATI, I bit the bullet, placed the order....and waited. In the meantime, it was an opportunity to mount an external trans cooler.

I had a really (Really!) nice Earl's stacked plate oil cooler on hand. It's big, but the reality is, there is no way possible to overcool an automatic transmission. Like some other parts, it has been recently discontinued by Earl's parent company, Holley. I suspect it was too expensive for them to produce and it's probably far cheaper to build something else (offshore?).

Stacked plate coolers are really the best format. They're similar to old Corvette L88 rads. Here's the cooler:



These old coolers will accept almost any hose size, with o-ring fittings. They were originally designed so that they could be used as engine oil coolers. I'm using -6AN hose for the cooler lines.



These are the optional mount brackets for the cooler. For my application, I used both, but had to fab up one more bracket.



I needed to build a bracket that would allow me to mount one end on the rad support and one end on the hood latch support (upright) at the nose of the car. So I dragged out this chunk of angle aluminum extrusion and the idea was to cut away anything that didn't look like a bracket (L-O-L):



I don't have a mill, so everything is done the old fashioned way...by hand! I used a saw, various files, a drill, a hole saw, and sanding blocks to fab parts. Here's the bracket roughed out.



Because the bracket was hefty, I decided to remove some excess material. A decent hole saw and some Rapid Tap works wonders:



Here's the finished bracket after I cleaned it up and block sanded it:




This is the cooler installed in the car. I use a mix of AN aircraft fasteners to bolt it to the car:



These are some later photos of the how the cooler lines are routed (transmission is in place here). I tried to keep close to the GM routing path, since it keeps the lines as far away from the headers possible. The first photo shows a pair of AN adapter fittings ATI builds:



The lines pass under the starter. I built a little bracket to affix the hose separator/clamp to an oil pan bolt. As you can see, I'm using a Tilton gear reduction starter. These are absolutely awesome. It doesn't drag with 14-degrees (or more sometimes) initial timing, turning the 565. By the way, there's a huge difference in these "mini-starters" from various companies. Tilton costs more, but it just flat works.



That's all I have for now. Next time, I'll show you some details on the shifter. I prefer getting it mounted prior to the transmission installation.

Last edited by Arrowsmith; 03-16-2023 at 12:10 PM.
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  #77  
Old 03-19-2023, 10:58 PM
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I really don't think your losing any power with that dual plane. People have made over 800Hp with GM OEM dual planes. This larger should support at least 850Hp

SMALLER 538 in with ported GM dual plane, 831Hp.
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/ho...-plane.354314/

Mine didn't make 800Hp, but we think the stock 1969 "052" alum block is the issue there.
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  #78  
Old 03-21-2023, 01:54 AM
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After a considerable wait, my TH400 was eventually shipped from ATI in Maryland. I've used both ATI and A1 Racing automatics transmissions for something like forty years. I knew both of the respective company founders very well. When Jim Beattie passed away, ATI was handed over to to his very capable son JC. Marc Ripes (from A1) on the other hand sold his business. I elected to go with ATI. JC runs a great business!

Anyway, while waiting for the transmission, I decided to install the shifter from Precision Performance. It's a fabulous piece and you'll soon see why...

First things first...I mocked it up in the car. I use tape to lay out where it will be, after getting in the car, moving the bench seat around and getting comfortable.



Here's the shift gate. As you can see, it's a forward pattern setup. I prefer forward pattern transmissions on the street. I'll get to that later. With the Precision Performance shifter, once it's in first gear, it operates like a ratchet. When changing upshifting, just keep slapping the shifter forward. When downshifting, you simply pull the lever and the shifter handle simultaneously.



The sliver "button" on the shifter handle is used when you need to go into reverse or park. Meanwhile, the red button is the line lock (roll control) switch.



There's a neutral safety switch built into the shifter. I simply wired it into the OEM neutral safety switch in the dash harness. The other wires are for the line lock. Note the mil spec style wire harness connector.



In order to make clean holes in the carpet, I use this (a soldering iron). By the way, a larger job works perfectly for making seat belt and seat mount holes in new carpet too!



Here's the shifter installed. I hate using big screws to hold a shifter in place. They're not secure and they tend to slice and dice my skin if I get too close under the car (). I use aircraft AN fasteners to hold it in place (nylocks under the car). I think you can see why plenty of racers use this setup. It's simply awesome.



Here's my TH400 from ATI. It too is a piece (!!!). Choices for components were a collaboration between JC and myself. For street use, a forward pattern manual valve body is a good idea. Their reason is, most reverse pattern manual valve bodies do not provide engine braking. ATI's forward pattern manual valve body does. Additionally, it has standard 2.48:1. 1.48:1 and 1:1 ratios. The input shaft is a Vasco steel job and the balance is all heavy duty ATI hardware (too much to list here). The torque converter is a 10-inch Tree Master from ATI. In ancient times, I would have needed to use an 8-inch converter, but technology has marched forward and ATI can make the 10-inch example work perfectly. A long stroke engine helps...L-O-L. And if you've used an 8-inch converter on the street, you'll know it sometimes isn't fun. The flex plate is an SFI-certified piece from ATI. I don't like billet flex plates. The reason is, they don't flex (which they are supposed to do) and that can create all sorts of havoc on a street driven car.



Obviously, the engine and trans must be hooked together and there are some important considerations. Here's how I do it...



To mount the flex plate on the engine, you have to make sure it's oriented correctly (don't laugh...some get it backwards). I also use ARP fasteners and torque them to spec:



When installing a converter, it's easy enough to get it wrong. Plenty of good mechanics miss it. I use this simple ATI shipping tool to ensure the converter and transmission input splines are correctly engaged. It saves a ton of heartache if you don't get it right.



Another thing folks tend to miss is transmission bolt engagement (often too little). I use ARP 12-point fasteners here, and this photo shows how much thread engagement they offer.



When installing the transmission, you shouldn't draw it to the block by the bolt threads. Once on the dowels, you should be able to move it into place by hand (that's what is going on here):



With the transmission case attached, here's the little dance I do to get the converter bolts installed and get the starter properly shimmed. It ain't pretty but it works...L-O-L:



Here's another look at the starter (Tilton simply builds stellar, no BS parts):



I prefer to use ATI's Grade 8 bolts for the converter (to flexplate). The reason is, a six-point head allows open end wrench access up inside the transmission bell housing.



I did this earlier, but I'll it address it now. It's the shifter cable setup on the transmission. It is far easier to get it close to adjustment here and then final adjust after it's in the car. As you can see, Precision Performance uses all top quality components:



Something small but incredibly important is the transmission dipstick. I use this setup from Dan Masta's Trick Stick company. With this assembly, the dipstick actually locks (NHRA requirement). This prevents it from blowing out, and if you've ever experienced a broken automatic that spews out a dipstick tube (and consequently oils down your back tires), you'll know why it's a great idea!



Last edited by Arrowsmith; 03-21-2023 at 02:13 AM.
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  #79  
Old 03-21-2023, 02:36 PM
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Awesome...wow!
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Old 03-21-2023, 11:32 PM
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Awesome...wow!
X2!!
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