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#1
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Wiper motor disassembly
Some of you gurus out there let me in on the secret to separating the electric motor from the motor casing as seen in this photo. The Chevelle Chassis Service Manual has some great detail on the disassembly but nothing specific about my issue. I am in the process of restoring this wiper motor assembly and will be plating the casing. Thanks!
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Sam... |
#2
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I'm thinking those cases were originally Cadmium plated as zinc is too shiny
and if you zinc without the clear chromate bath (shiny finish) I dont think the zinc will live. Curious if you have a plan ??? And what about the copper bushing spot welded into bottom of that round "can" How do you protect that or do you ????? As I have a BOX full of those wiper motors, In interested in your process and results.
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Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
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mockingbird812 (03-31-2018) |
#3
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Good questions Chuck.
I have also heard that cad plating is the correct finish. The copper bushing spot welded into the bottom (which is news to me) is what the armature sets in - right? I am not sure how to address this issue. I did just read in the service manual that the “....end case and field assembly is serviced as a unit.” I hope that doesn’t mean it is connected together in some challenging way.
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Sam... |
#4
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I believe the winding core is a slight press fit into the outer housing. If you can hang onto the winding and tap the outer case lip, it may separate.
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mockingbird812 (03-31-2018) |
#5
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I have restored many of this type. You need to use a puller to remove it. It can be reinstalled by pressing it back. A real hassle and not for the faint of heart. It is a cadmium finish.
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mockingbird812 (03-31-2018) |
#6
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Edit: This is in response to McCune:
OK, i like the sound of that. There are a bunch of resto shops that restore these correctly so there has to be a way to separate the case from the innards. Thanks
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Sam... Last edited by mockingbird812; 03-31-2018 at 01:13 AM. |
#7
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Quote:
Good info. Is a 2 or 3 prong/arm puller recommended? Any little tricks? What are you referring to as “ A real hassle...”? Using the puller or the whole resto process - which is quite involved with lots of moving parts. By the way my wiper assembly is fully operational and is mostly getting a cosmetic resto. Thanks
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Sam... Last edited by mockingbird812; 03-31-2018 at 01:24 AM. |
#8
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You have to make a device that threads in to the bottom, and pushes it out against the device that grabs the bottom of the field support or shoe. Of course bend the tabs to remove the brush board and armature first.
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mockingbird812 (03-31-2018) |
#9
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Quote:
Thanks!
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Sam... Last edited by mockingbird812; 03-31-2018 at 12:40 PM. |
#10
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They are a complete pain in the a$$ to restore. I have done them on almost every car we have restored. The two hatch marks you see on the side of the cover are on both sides and that was used to hold the housing tight to the windings. I have had fairly good success by running a small but stout rod through the bolt holes on the end of the housing and gently tapping on alternating sides of the windings on the bottom to gently push the them out but real care must be taken. For starters you can bend the windings if you get too aggressive and also if not very careful you can break the brush end of the windings if the armature is not held making it useless. I have never been able to get any type of a puller to work so would love to see and hear how others have done it.
Before you remove the winding and armature assembly from the main housing you also need to cut the two wires. That is a whole other subject. LOL I used to restore these for mail in customers but due to the intense labor I cannot do them economically for the customer and still make any money so we only do them on our full restorations.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specializing in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
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