The Crusty Cuda: Whole lotta Shakin' (N96) Goin' on!

[A12pilot]

Dern tootin’ brutha!!!

Cheers
Dave

[cook_dw]

Originally Posted by A12pilot

Attention all Users: Attention all Users:

A breakthrough has been discovered! Sitting Reserve in Miami with absolutely nothing to do except listen to the Corona-Clueless scrounge for TP, I decided to take a road trip up to The Villages to see my folks. Driving up with the dash and engine harness diagrams floating through my head from hours of staring at them, I called M&H and chatted with Joe (I think....I know it wasn’t Tom). So explaining to him my entire situation from start to finish, we methodically went through every situation that it “could” be. I’d present a scenario and he would debunk it with the diagrams. He’d present a solution and I’d describe why that isn’t possible with the wiring diagram in my head and the symptoms my car had, to which he’d agree. This went back and forth with some extremely intelligent banter the likes of which haven’t been heard since the Carter Administration. This hour long conversation puzzled him, puzzled me, puzzled the government phone tap guy that was listening on the other end, and ultimately made us both think we came up with the issue with concurrence from the phone tap guy who said “that’s it!” in a very soft and muffled voice

I have to use the voltmeter and test one wire when I get home which will confirm our assumptions. We’re confident that this will be it!!! Which means out comes the dash harness and back to M&H it goes to be reworked. There’s one, to possibly two, wires in the harness that are spliced incorrectly which is sending power where it doesn’t need to go and grounding out the system intermittently. We touched on it briefly in the thread and Darrell gets the trophy with his mention of the “key in buzzer” option. My car doesn’t have that option installed but the connection is in the harness. The wire that powers that option is the culprit along with the tach lead wire, and oil pressure sending unit lead, and coil wire. Yes, it is THAT complicated!!! I’ll confirm Saturday when I get back and have a better explanation, but I think the eureka moment has come!!!

Cheers
Dave

Hope that's what it is..

[TimG]

Keep us posted, Dave. I won't leave the house until we get an update......

[SuperNovaSS]

Dave,


This sounds very promising. I hope the hypothesis proves true.



Jason

[mockingbird812]

Originally Posted by TimG

Keep us posted, Dave. I won't leave the house until we get an update......

Yeah well Tim, now that is not really much of a sacrifice, is it?

[A12pilot]

Woohoo!!! I’m happy to report Steve’s voodoo doll is still working!

Not only was that not it, the diagnosis via a volt meter trouble shooting this has resulted in complete disbelief from what I was seeing. Key cranking I wasn’t getting 12v at the coil. Then, key in the Run position, 12 volts on both sides of the ballast. Then key off, key on, no volts. Key back on, 12 volts at the coil. Yep, beats me too. Basically there’s no repetitive consistency on the readings. I’ve thrown in the towel and ripped out the dash harness, boxed it up, and it’ll be headed to M&H Monday. When will I get it back? Beats me! If they tell me the harness is good, that’ll be the end of this hobby for me!

So it’ll sit, once again, at least for another month.

More to come.....eventually!

Cheers
Dave

[Billohio]

I would take that off your hands without the harness. No worries!!

That is frustrating.

[big gear head]

What about the ignition switch? Would that cause this? I know it's new, but that doesn't mean it isn't bad.

[L78M22Rag]

:-(

[njsteve]

Is the “new” ignition switch an original Chrysler part? I’ve had terrible luck with aftermarket ignition switches not having the correct internal switching position compared to where the key was.

What are the voltage readings if you hold the key just past “run” but not engaging the starter?

I may have an NOS ignition switch in the basement. I’ll have to search tomorrow.