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  #41  
Old 12-27-2021, 08:42 PM
olredalert olredalert is offline
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----Ryan,,,Jan found a wicker picnic kit at some antique store and it looks great on the small rack on her Fiat 500 Jolly. Keep on the lookout on E-bay, maybe as it's cool!.....Bill S
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  #42  
Old 12-27-2021, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olredalert View Post
----Ryan,,,Jan found a wicker picnic kit at some antique store and it looks great on the small rack on her Fiat 500 Jolly. Keep on the lookout on E-bay, maybe as it's cool!.....Bill S
That Jolly is over the top cute!!

Ryan W31
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #43  
Old 02-10-2022, 05:46 PM
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My VW is headed for certification tomorrow.


Should be all ready for spring.


Ryan W31.
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #44  
Old 03-14-2022, 01:19 PM
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Registered, plated, stickered, insured, waiting for the snow to end.


Just as I was ready to test drive it I found a huge gas leak so I replaced the tank, some lines, filter, etc. etc. to make the fuel system safe.


I also got wheels and hub caps (the caps were a mess so I used Evaporust on them and then Chrome polish... they came out quite well. I still need to restore the wheels.


Ryan W31.
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #45  
Old 03-14-2022, 04:20 PM
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Get ready to have fun this spring and summer. Enjoy.
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  #46  
Old 06-06-2022, 04:16 PM
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Here is a summary of the journey I have been on to try to make my Super beetle run "Superly".


I am frustrated yes but this has been I real learning experience. I had very limited knowledge of anything related to run issues, and tuning. and this has dragged me through the various systems needed to make an engine run multiple times.


Below is my introduction to the Samba :-)


Ryan W31




1973 Super Beetle RunIssues

Full disclose…… I am a Chevy guy who has turned into anOldsmobile guy, and now I am also a VW guy.


I researched and found that for me the best value, bestsuspension, least complexity would be an early Super Beetle.
I did a lot of work in the fall to make it reliable and roadworthy so I could drive it daily this summer…… tomorrow is June 1st andI am still not driving it…..

I started to try to make it run properly…… oh S#$%. Nojoy!


The Super has severalrun issues:


Poor low end acceleration


Hesitation IfI push the gas pedal even 25% down


Surging IfI drive a constant speed there is an underlying surge that happens


Stalling Notfrequent but sometimes depending on the tune


Backfire (exhaust) These are small but semi-frequent


It seems to run ok at higher rpm, but after I shift intosecond or third, or fourth it has barely enough power to keep going and notenough to go up a small grade.


I understand this car weighs 2000lbs and had 60 HP brand newso my expectations are in line with what it should run like…. I am notexpecting it to feel like my 1969 Cutlass S Sports Coupe W31 4 speed J


Full disclosure: I am not experienced with tuning cars, thisis new to me and something I very much want to learn. I did a ton of work to myCutlass but the tuning was done by an expert on a dyno.


I have done a lot of research, read 3 manuals that I nowown, reading articles in a VW magazine I now get, watching YouTube videos,calling car buddies to commiserate, and I have been posting every frustratingdetail on Facebook.


I shared the journey of my Cutlass restoration on Yenko.netso I am not new to forums but I have hesitated joining the Samba as my Superwas supposed to be a driver not a restoration/project…….. Well I feel I have anew project in the family, and I need some help.


Here are someobservations:


Noises: I don’t hear any “bad sounds” no rod knock, no valvetrain ticks, (normal mechanical lifter sounds) no bad vibrations, with thebreather off you can hear the air sucking sound typical of a carbureted engine.In general I don’t hear anything that draws my attention other than all the runproblems that are audible.


Smells: The car is slightly open to the outside world as Iremoved the gas heater in the “frunk” and have yet to seal up those holes. Thecar smells like it runs rich, smells like gas all the time. After a night ofworking on the car I need shower as I stink of exhaust and gas smell. (nottotally abnormal but excessive)


Leaks: It drips a little bit of engine oil but not much. Ihave to check the trans gear lube level (I now have a 17mm socket driver)


Here is a list ofmain items I have done.


Engine:


Oil change: I used the good stuff, Brad Penn Muscle Car oil10W40 and some snake oyl Sea Foam (I am getting desperate if I use BS likethis) I got new gasket set and flattened out the pan cover (now it doesn’t leakat that spot any more)


Compression test: I bought a compression checker and testedall four cylinders. The manual spec is each cylinder needs to be over 100 psiand the difference should be less than 20 or so between cylinders.


Cylinder #1 = 115, #2 = 125, #3 = 120, #4 = 115


I take this to mean the cylinders, pistons, and valves arefunctional.


I checked clearance at TDC of each rocker arm, all are inspec 0.006”


Ignition:


I read many articles and watched many videos that said theSolex 34 PICT 34-3 and the 009 distributor is a bad match and make a dead spotoff idle so I went all in and ordered an entire new ignition system. New plugsChampion LC-68?


New wires Napa (the ones that match spark plugs with thesmall cap unthreaded/removed.


New Flame Thrower Pertronix Ignition from CIP1 PER-D186504 -PERTRONIX VACUUM ADVANCE (SVDA) DISTRIBUTOR - COMPLETE WITH IGNITOR IGNITIONMODULE INSTALLED - ALL BEETLE STYLE ENGINES


New Flame Thrower Coil ACC-C10-5842-BK - PERTRONIX 40511FLAME THROWER-1 BLACK COIL - 40,000 VOLT / 3.0 OHM


Measured battery voltage at 12.4 VDC, measured coil voltageat 11 VDC….. This bothers me… is this an issue? Is there a resister in thecircuit? I checked the wiring diagram in the manual and see no resister but whyis the voltage lower at the coil?


Pertronix provides a chart of the timing curve I need to verify this actuallyoccurs.


I have done exhaustive reading on how to set timing on theseengines, mostly as I did/do not know what I am doing. I made a pointer andtaped it to the pulley and have much to learn on this subject. I have used anonline calculator to calculate the distance on the circumference of the pulleyto each critical timing mark.


I took a spark plug out and verified TDC on #1 cylinder oncompression stroke. I am 99% sure the notch on the pulley is TDC. (In themanual it shows various years are marked differently, some have three notches,some have 2 some have 1, I am also sure the manual is stating that some years the notch is 7.5 BTDC but we will see)


I bought a spark plug tester to go inline and verify eachspark plug is actually firing but it matches normal spark plugs with the tipthreaded on them. I may modify it to suit… TBD. It would suck to find out afterall this that my four cylinder is running on 2 or 3 cylinders…..


I started to map out the advance curve.


2200 RPM 20 Degrees BTDC


Carburetion:


Disassembled the carb and rebuilt with a kit. I didn’t takethe butterfly out and left the cross shaft in place. C13-2500 - (111-198-569-U111198569U) - EMPI BRAND - CARBURETOR REBUILD KIT FOR SOLEX 28-34 PICTCARBURETORS ALL BEETLE / GHIA 61-74 BUS 61-71


The car came with a spare Solex 34 PICT 3 it seems like itwas new but old. (Issues stayed the same and some new ones arose so I swappedback)


I bought a low pressure gauge and teed into the fuel lineafter the fuel pump and saw 4 psi, very steady, I reved the engine up and itremained steady. This may be one psi higher than spec? Is this an issue?


I checked the choke function and set it so it leaves theupper butterfly open approx. ¼ inch.


I checked the accelerator pump function, it sprays nicelyand centered in the carb.


I pushed the float under water for 30 minutes and it didn’ttake on any water.


After rebuild I checked the needle and seat by blowing on itand pushing the pin back and forth, it works well. I used the proper thicknessspacer under the needle and seat using the chart in the rebuild kit.


I’ve adjusted the air and mixture screws on the carb manytimes, they don’t seem to do what they are supposed to, and I am very suspectof these. I have been told to make small adjustments and let it smooth out andthen make another ¼ turn….. I still don’t feel like these screws do anything…other than near the end of the thread the engine dies.


I have watched videos that say I should change the jets inthe carb to match todays fuel. 127.5 main jet, 60 idle jet on the side, and a 70 jet in the top underthe hat.???


Vacuum:


I checked for vacuum leaks as best I could. I sprayedflammable carb cleaner onto intake manifold gaskets, carb shafts, intakegaskets at the cylinder heads, etc.


The intake gaskets were the one item that were leaking so Ireplaced them.


I bought a vacuum gauge to use for troubleshooting, I seebetween 11 and 16 inches of mercury. I think 18-20 is proper?


One car friend says to use manifold vacuum, another says tuse the port on side of the carb. The manuals and videos show it on the side ofthe carb.


Testing:


I checked the engine rotates CW looking from behind. This iscritical when trying to find out where timing setting are with no marks.


I verified the firing order and each plug wire.


I found an old tach and dwell gauge in my Dad’s old tool boxand used it to measure rpm. I understand normal idle is 900 rpm





New notes:


I used a piston stop to find actual TDC it was close to thedent on the pulley closest to the rear bumper, and the notch on the sideclosest to the front bumper seems to be 5 ATDC


I marked out 0,7,20,28,30,32 on a tape on the pulley and willmap out the timing tonight.


I hooked up a tach (mine has a 4 cylinder scale) (ASHMAN40 Iread every single word of your replyJ)


I hooked up a vacuum gauge teed into manifold vacuum andalso ported vacuum from the port on the driver’s side of the carb,


I hooked up a timing light.


I warmed up the car so it came off the fast idle cam.


I removed the vacuum advance hose from the carb and pluggedthe vacuum port on the driver’s side in the middle of the carb.


I checked initial timing and it was set at 7-8 degrees BTDC.


I then used a basic timing light (not a modern unit withfeatures, just one with a trigger for on or off) to check the timing at 500 rpmincrements.


We were intending to map out the advance curve to see if itmatches the literature that comes with the distributor. IT DOES NOT!!


The timing stayed at 7-8 BTDC all the way up to 2500 rpm andthen started to advance a little bit. Between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm the timingadvanced to 20 degrees BTDC, by 3000 rpm it was backfiring and begging formercy so bad I had to let up.


We then tested vacuum advance and as per the curve thevacuum advance provided 9 degrees of advance.


This testing to me says the centrifugal/mechanical advancedoes not work, and the vacuum advance does work.


I am working with Pertronix to send it for warrantyreplacement or repair TBD.

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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #47  
Old 06-13-2022, 07:44 PM
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Ugh - I feel your pain. Hang in there and keep digging.
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  #48  
Old 06-13-2022, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPOLS3 View Post
Ugh - I feel your pain. Hang in there and keep digging.
If the Super Beetle had run nice right off the bat I wouldn’t know a lot of importance information!!!

Thanks.

Awaiting the warranty distributor…..

Ryan W31
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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