comp plus shifter. new vs old - Page 2

ORIGLS6 · #11 12-15-2009, 08:47 PM

I have six of the older shifters that I've picked up over the years. My opinion is, the older units are better built with stronger material. I noticed the newer mounts were quite a bit different than the old ones, although mounting hardware has always been an evolving part of the Hurst production.
Darren's Tutorial may become a vital part of the Hurst legacy.

**WILMASBOYL78** · #12 12-15-2009, 09:06 PM

The older Hurst shifters are a lot like Cumby and Howie...they just don't build them like that anymore

Plowman · #13 12-16-2009, 03:57 AM

I grabbed some quick pics from a setup I have out in the garage. This might help ya Tommy, as it is a new (2002 vintage) China made shifter.

The kit does need a little bit of tweeking. I start by omitting the plastic/nylon bushings and using a steel bushing kit. These kits are not hard to find.

The next tweek I use is to back the spring clip with a thin stainless steel washer. Seems to eliminate any slop in the linkage at this point.

It's important to make sure the spring clips are sent all of the way home and locked. Both locked and unlocked spring clips are in some of these pictures.

When fine-tuning these shifters, I don't always rely on the alignment hole, as seen in this pic below. For reference, the shifter has reverse engaged, but the alignment holes are not perfectly clear. You will notice that the outside edges of the shift-mechanism levers are lined up much better to the shifter body than the alignment hole indicates.

Now about the shifter moving the rear of the trans up...

BBBenny is twistin with steel mounts, the shifter spacing will not be recognized in action. They had to go to this newer style because we've all been stripping out the aluminum threads in the tail shafts from banging gears all these years!

**69 Post Sedan** · #14 12-16-2009, 04:20 AM

Paul, that is a great illustration and explanation of how to install a shifter.

Thanks....'cause I needed this too!!!

**Tommy** · #15 12-16-2009, 06:47 PM

Thanks Paul, I'll fiddle around with it some more and see what happens. Nice Transmission stand too !

Tommy

Plowman · #16 12-17-2009, 12:19 AM

Tommy clean out your PM's

Keith Tedford · #17 12-17-2009, 06:09 AM

A friend of mine recently installed one of these new Hurst shifters in a car and had to massage the holes before he could install the shift rods. I installed a Competition plus in our old Chevelle back in '70-'71 and it has over 150K miles on it and will go back into the car when it is done. Our 396 car has the Competition Plus that the original owner installed and it still works fine. I just adapted a bench seat Muncie handle to it. Best of both worlds. Just because something was good 30-40 years ago, doesn't mean that the stuff today is any where near as good. Some stuff probably is but there seems to be a lot of unhappy people trying to make this new stuff work. From my experience I've been farther ahead when ever I took the old stuff and freshened it up.

**Tommy** · #18 12-17-2009, 07:52 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Tommy clean out your PM's

[/ QUOTE ]

Done

Tommy

68SSCamaro · #19 12-18-2009, 02:11 AM

If you have problems with the new shifters you should send an email to the Quality Manager at Hurst and send them the link to this thread. If they care about their product they will look into it and improve the quality.

**Tommy** · #20 12-20-2009, 11:06 PM

I installed my old Hurst Super Shifter and everything works fine now. I used the steel bushings and washers and all the slop is gone too. The Super Shifter was on another car I have and was mounted up high with the large plate and straight rods. I changed everything out but kept using the shifter and it works fine. So now I have comp plus rods and a super shifter.... What ever works, right ?

I'll work with the junk shifter later, I want to bang gears now.....

Tommy

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Bob Jenkins (05-29-2017)