The Crusty Cuda: Whole lotta Shakin' (N96) Goin' on!

[A12pilot]

New ignition switch, all new wiring everywhere, new fuel lines/ sender, tank , and no cap on it right now so venting isn't a problem, new fuel pump, cam installed correctly (would not run smoothly ever if this was the case, but good suggestion Lee), swaping both carbs do the same thing.

With the now clear fuel filter on it I can verify it's getting fuel.

I'm going to try Ken's suggestion when I get back and take the car out of the equation. There's got to be a short somewhere that's doing this.

I also had this: just placing the key in the ignition switch, not turning it on... just slightly putting the key in....causes the horn relay to click and the ALT idiot light to go on showing me that yes, I'm an idiot! This initially happened with the door open, and I'd push the door jamb switch in and it would turn the light out. Releasing it would cause the relay to click and the light to go on. I disconnected the door jamb switches and this stopped the light coming on and the click. Before that I disconnected the horns, alternator, ballast, coil...all one at a time you see if any was causing a short. Same results.

It's a stumper men......

Cheers
Dave

[cook_dw]

If its like a GM when the key is inserted with the door open the horn relay with buzz. If you here a clicking then it might be that the contacts are stuck and not allowing it to make the "buzzing" sound.

[RS_COPO_Canuck]

Maybe put a volt meter on the coil and see what's going on through the cycle.
If all else fails, hang an Aztec worship doll over the engine.

[markinnaples]

Just make sure that it's not this

[A12pilot]

See, that’s what I was actually getting ready to do, Jim! The Aztec worship doll, that is.

Man....I love that episode!

Cheers
Dave

[napa68]

As the risk of being that guy who has not read the thread in detail and repeating something you have done or was suggested....................have you monitored the voltage coming into the ballast resistor?

It is possible the circuit is getting heated up and dropping voltage. Just a thought.

I can appreciate your frustration. The problem seems so simple in nature (as these are simple cars) but you get so pissed off that you are ready to throw the kitchen sink at it and get away from the basics to diagnose.

My apologies if I have repeated something

Keep you chin up. You do nice work Dave and are a real asset to this site!

Tim

[A12pilot]

Thanks, Tim. No apologies necessary my friend. I’ve monitored that voltage and didn’t notice any drops but have not monitored it when it stumbles and dies. As soon as I say to myself, “Welp, seems that’s not the problem...” and disconnect things then (chugga chugga wheeze). I’m going to recheck this again when I get back though just to confirm it. That is, if I can get it started again!

Been researching some more and not really finding any other info comparable to what’s going on with my car. I’m going to start back again with voltage monitoring and possibly some sort of short in my new harness somewhere. I’ll get this. Then ROAST those F70s ‘till they go “poof”

Cheers
Dave

[njsteve]

You mentioned that the engine and dash harnesses were new, I think?

Remember when I restored the 1972 Trans Am? I bought a brand new wiring harness from M&H Harnesses and it turned out they left out the resistance wire that was supposed to be there for reducing the voltage to the points. Turned out it was punching 13+ volts in to the points at all times, and frying them and the condenser after about five minutes of running. Once they gave me a new harness it worked fine - and they even warrantied the harness two years after I bought it.

Did you buy the engine harness for the 340 with electronic ignition or with points ignition? Could be a similar issue with incompatible wiring. Do you have the part # handy?

IIRC, the Cuda uses the firewall-mounted ballast resistor to do the same thing. I always carried a half dozen around in my glove box because they would go bad - either totally fried or heat related partial failures. You may have to go with a baker's dozen of them.

[chevelleshack]

Not much of a mopar guy but does it have the heat crossover in the intake ? Had the same problem with a SBC & ended up being percolation of the fuel in the bowls & would boil over due to today's less than stellar fuel. Had the same symptoms also . Blocked off the heat passages & all was good after that .

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by chevelleshack

Not much of a mopar guy but does it have the heat crossover in the intake ? Had the same problem with a SBC & ended up being percolation of the fuel in the bowls & would boil over due to today's less than stellar fuel. Had the same symptoms also . Blocked off the heat passages & all was good after that .

Wow, that reminds me: A friend had a 440 Challenger and it turned out there was an internal crack in the exhaust crossover from the crossover to the inside of the intake runner. When it got warmed up, the crack would enlarge and create an enormous internal vacuum leak, killing the engine.

Got any extra intakes?