'69 C3-Estimated costs and problem areas to reanimate long-dormant car

[tom406]

I have my own ideas, but I'd appreciate input from those of you out there who have worked on C3's that have been dormant for a long time. I'm looking at a 1 owner 36k mile '69 L46 4sp A/C coupe that had the battery removed and has been parked for about 30 years. Everything is intact and looks great but its a C3 with... all those vacuum lines. All input welcome, including wild-ass guesses. Thank you

[William]

Step #1: Check the frame. Notorious for heavy rust, typically in front of the rear wheels.

[tom406]

Thanks William. Lifelong Seattle car, frame rust is a non-issue (I looked). BTW, I grew up in Minneapolis, so I truly understand rust

[Too Many Projects]

Nice looking car. I really like the blue on blue.
If it was stored in a protected environment, the hoses may not be deteriorated badly. How do the hoses look that you can see in the engine compartment ?



Brake calipers are a concern, as they may well be stuck, or will, after a few applications.
Hopefully, there is a high enough anti-freeze concentration to ward off major rusting in the block.

I would check out prices for the parts that it may need and, of course, all the fluids and flushing chemicals necessary.

WAG ?? No idea but tires and a battery are going to run 1-2k. Friggen batteries are $2-300 now..

[William]

I'm in WI....

[Too Many Projects]

MN, WI, MI, they are the headwaters of the Midwest rust belt...

[Lynn]

Assuming you are correct on the frame, the biggest X factor is the engine. Is it frozen?

You can absolutely bank on the following:

Brake calipers will need replaced. Not expensive if doing it yourself and if you are NOT concerned with 100% originality. Lone Star Calipers is pretty reasonable. For more money, and if you are not in a hurry, you can have the originals rebuilt. They will need to be sleeved.

99% of the time the master cyl also needs rebuilt or replaced. If all that stuff is original, I would personally send to White Post for sleeving and rebuilding.

The other X factor is the fuel tank. Was it almost full? If so, you just need to suck out all the old gas and put fresh gas in there. Check for leak at the fuel pump before starting. I have seen cars emerge from long term storage with nothing more than fluid changes, clean gas, brakes, and they drive right down the road. Others seem to leak from every possible source.

I bought a 70 LT-1 that had sat since 1984. Replaced the MC and calipers, put clean gas in the tank and put on an electric fuel pump (temporary) and had it up and driving in less than a week. Did not even change the hoses and belts, although I will.

Assuming engine is not locked, and assuming you are doing this yourself, you should be able to get it on the road for less than $2k. I have no idea what it would cost to pay someone. I haven't paid anyone to work on a car since I was 17.

[earntaz]

Don't forget to check the bird cage ...

[TimG]

Make sure the engine rotates, I bet it does. The AC will need work. It's a twin to a car I bought from the original owner and sold to a friend 30 years ago. He still owns it.

[tom406]

Ordered new by Boeing Engineer who helped design the lunar landing operation