? about Day 2 mods... - Page 2

**whitetop** · #11 06-20-2003, 04:25 AM

Another thing why the cars were different between the coast, and this is my opinion, is the guys in the rust belt east/NE were more blue collar so their cars reflected their drag racing heritage. West coast guys were always of a different tune. Not as blue collar as the east so they tended to be more "refined" (in their opinion)so they steered toward the forgein cars which were not drag raced in their homelands but came from a Lemans/Imsa/Formula one heritage. You know the kind of racing were the male spectators wear a sweater around his neck. i.e. girly man stuff.

MY70SS396 · #12 06-20-2003, 06:44 AM

Greg,
As original as your car is, I would leave it like it is and drive it. To me cars that haven't been off the frame "rock". They can only be original once. We still should get both cars together and do a photo shoot.
Mitchell

mc25t190 · #13 06-20-2003, 11:10 AM

greg,
contact tim lopata, he is a genious about date period correct stuff or troy criscillas both from maryville, tenn. these guys have as much kknowledge about date period stuff as anyone i know. tim is copolocaters on this site and troy is ratpack. hope upu will find what you are looking for if not call me and i'll get there #'s.
kh

hvychev · #14 06-20-2003, 07:28 PM

Greg Whitetop is right in that I am doing a "day 2" theme on my car. A couple of suggestions are if you are going to do it at all IMO you are completely defeating the purpose unless you run bias ply tires and a vintage battery or in my case a Battery Topper. Most people can't deal with a set of old style tires because they "think" that it will give them a crappy ride. I can tell you from driving on them for a few thousand miles now that it is just a myth about the bad ride. If most people don't like the ride with them they shouldn't drive a muscle car in the first place. If you want a comfortable ride drive a Lexus. Another thing is like whitetop said use parts from the period of the time frame that you want to accomplish. Dont use parts that were big in the mid/later 60's on your 70. Parts from 70-75 are cool IMO. I must say that most people use magazines to judge what would be "correct". I only use them as a guide. Only a handfull of cars made it into magazines compared to the millions of american muscle cars that had different things done to them that were not in mags. Ask guys in your area what them and people they knew were using to hop up their cars. For instance nobody I asked used SW gauges but ran with the Sun in my area. Like whitetop said it is a regional thing. If you look at my car I wanted NOTHING on my car to tell you it was past the 70's. Everything from style, parts, decals, licence plates, and even floor mats must be time frame correct. If you do it do it all the way. Attached is a pic of my car.

zgator · #15 06-20-2003, 07:38 PM

I know that I ran a set of Thrush headers on my 70Z with appleince(sp) glass packs.Oh yea and a USA1 plate.

hvychev · #16 06-20-2003, 07:42 PM

I am running the standard size Wide Oval tires and 14X7 Cragers for the front with Mickey Thompson Indy Profile S/S L60 15 meats with Crager 15X8 for the rear. the car has a nice rake from the tires and I also have a set of Gabriel Hi Jacker air shocks for the rear.

hvychev · #17 06-20-2003, 07:46 PM

The engine compartment isn't really done up that much. You can't change the air cleaner if you want to keep your cowl induction. I added headers, battery topper, finned valve covers(fake so I have been told) and a orange blade flex a lite fan.

hvychev · #18 06-20-2003, 07:47 PM

Here is how the flex a lite fan looks.

hvychev · #19 06-20-2003, 07:48 PM

An interior shot.

hvychev · #20 06-20-2003, 07:49 PM

Sun tach