Getting an old Z running again

[RALLY]

Originally Posted by Kurt S

If the car is that original, I'd focus on flushing the tank and the lines, not replacing parts.

Agree 100% leave the original parts on the car after the cleaning process.

[mssl72]

What if the inside of the tank is a little crispy? How would you guys handle that? I'm kinda in the same situation.

[rm70z]

Any photos , love to see survivors

[Kurt S]

An original tank from any vehicle from that vintage is a bit crispy. That's what the filter on the fuel sending unit is for.

[mssl72]

Originally Posted by Kurt S

An original tank from any vehicle from that vintage is a bit crispy. That's what the filter on the fuel sending unit is for.

What I was wondering is, what the best method of removing the "crisp" and treatment of the tank afterwards. Has anyone gone through the process? What works and what doesn't?

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Most radiator shops will clean the inside of a fuel tank. They use some type of strong acid to flush out the tank and then seal the entire inside. This is what i did a number of years back and has been fine sense. If the car is that original, this is what i would do.

[ronzz572]

If the car has been stored well in a warm dry garage? 1st thing I would do is remove the spark plugs and turn the motor by hand. If it turns over freely. Drain the oil and change the filter. Disconect the fuel line at pump inlet. Crank it over with a new battery to get the oil flowing off and on for about 5 mi minutes. Attach a new hose to the fuel pump inlet and into a fuel can with high octane racing fuel. Then crank it some more to get the fuel up to the carb. Then let it sit for about a hour to let the fresh fuel clean up the stale dry fuel in the carb. Try the accelerater pump and see if it squirts fuel. If no leaks put a fresh new set of spark plugs in it and see if it starts up. Leave everything else alone including coolant if it has enough in it. Keep the original plugs to put back in later if it runs ok.. if everything went well there. I would see what the fuel gauge indicates. If full it probably won't have any rust. Then try to sample the fuel. Either way empty or full. If it's still liquid form use a electric fuel pump hooked to the fuel pump hose and drain and sample the fuel again. If the worked out fuel drained and not to bad. Add 5 gallon of racing fuel again to the tank and hook the original hose back to the pump. Then run it again. It Remember a car is only a original survivor car if everything is left undisturbed or changed. So be very careful with everything you do. If everything worked out favorable with the engine. Now move on to the brake system. Check the fluid in the reservoir. If it looks OK test push the brake pedal. If the brakes function and don't stick on anywhere. I would leave it alone. If dirty suck out the fluid In the reservoir a d replace with fresh fluid. And then try the brakes. Again I stress it's a original survivor car you want to do the very minimum to make things function and work without disturbing anything.