69 Z/28 Day II Project (Air Force Brat)

[NorCam]

Went to pick up some new bolts for the springs today. These are 2.0" UHL but they are 3/8" diameter vs the originals which were 5/16". Hoping I can drill the springs out for the larger bolt provided the steel isn't hardened? I don't want to pull the springs out again just to drill the holes 1/16" bigger.

[Too Many Projects]

You're probably done by now, but spring steel is rather hard. Just keep the drill speed slow and use cutting oil. You'll be fine.

[rszmjt]

Graeme- Standens should have the correct spring bolts

[NorCam]

These came from Standens Mike.

I was there yesterday and asked for 5/16" x 2" UHL and some new guy came back saying he only had 1.500" UHL in a 5/16" which is what I already had. As he knew this wasn't what I asked for, he just gave me the 3/8" x 2" bolts in case I could make them work. (Larry & Steve were both busy when I was there).

After seeing how much of a PITA this was going to be to drill the springs for the larger diameter bolt, I called Travis up earlier today and explained that I needed 1/2" Fillister Head center bolts in a 5/16" size but that I needed something longer than 1.50" UHL. He totally got it and asked me to drop back in as he found some 4" long bolts with the correct 1/2" Fillister head that I could cut down. He also gave me some hardened 3/8" washers and spacers along with some double nuts for the bottom but won't need the spacers or washers as they are too big.

I also checked Bolt Supply looking for a deeper barrel nut but there wasn't anything in fine thread so I'll try this stuff out tonight and see how it all fits together. I should be able to McGuiver something. (lol)

[Tracker1]

Wow. A question purely out of uninformed curiosity, but looking back through this thread you have spent a lot of time on traction bar "geometry", bolts, angles, U bolts, heights etc. Was it this complicated to set up traction bars in 1969 (asking folks who were there back in the day)? Or are you looking for the suspension to do something more "specific" than the Lakewood technology was able to do 40-50 years ago? Fascinating stuff, but I would have long ago pitched it all in the garbage can hahahaha You're a patient and driven man obviously - which is what makes this build so interesting.

[NorCam]

Originally Posted by Tracker1

Wow. A question purely out of uninformed curiosity, but looking back through this thread you have spent a lot of time on traction bar "geometry", bolts, angles, U bolts, heights etc. Was it this complicated to set up traction bars in 1969 (asking folks who were there back in the day)? Or are you looking for the suspension to do something more "specific" than the Lakewood technology was able to do 40-50 years ago? Fascinating stuff, but I would have long ago pitched it all in the garbage can hahahaha You're a patient and driven man obviously - which is what makes this build so interesting.

Nope...

I think most people back in the day would have just slapped the bars in, tightened up the bolts and went out and tortured the car. Some of those people broke lots of $h*t, some never got them to hook up right, and some likely experimented in similar fashion while learning along the way.

I am OK with tearing back into the suspension if it means I am adding another cool piece to the puzzle or scooping the right Day 2 part. That has happened more than once already...but it's all good. Got nowhere to go with this Z/28 at the moment so I might as well dial it in tight before I bring it out of the box!

And it's getting there...

[NorCam]

Got out to spend a few hours working on the car while finishing up the suspension today. Wedges are now installed, trac bars are roughed in on both sides, and I flipped the bases around on the airbags to help clear the rear straps on the Lakewoods. Once that was finished up I installed the driveshaft and bolted the NMW safety loop up through the floor. Since the bolts came up under the seat pan, I drilled the top plate with a hole saw and dropped the washers and nuts down into the cavity to conceal the hardware once the carpet goes back in. I'll load the suspension in the AM and will then make some final adjustments.

[R68GTO]

Looks fantastic Graeme!

[NorCam]

Lot's of little things on the docket today. Once the shop is tidied up, I need to nip the length from the bolts on the airbags, put the wheels back on the car, and get all the hardware torqued to spec. Then I want to get the ground straps onto the motor, install the clutch rods and get the wiring to the solenoid and starter finished up along with the remaining wires to the battery posts & ignition so that I can fire this thing up. Planning to bleed the brakes tomorrow and get that out of the way also. Guess I'm going to need some stop-and-go power when I roll it outside to warm up those headers in the days ahead.

From there I am onto the interior to get the door panels fitting better. I mocked up one side and installed the door seal the other day, and I am really not digging these reproduction latex OER seals or the molded Al Knoch deluxe door panels which have a plastic backing. The panels do not want to sit down over the thick rubber blocks of these seals and are going to require some thinning of the rubber blocks to bring the panels into the right position and allow them to drop down over the tops of the doors. I kind of expected this and it's all about getting things to fit perfectly so I can get the interior looking just right. More on this battle when I get it in the win category.

(a·hem - a-nal)

[NorCam]

Suspension is finished and adjusted. Next up is the engine wiring. I'll clean the smudges off the tank when I'm ready for final cleaning.