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  #481  
Old 03-12-2019, 05:47 PM
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My plastic inner fender (only one that survived) was cracked and not reusable. As many of you know, original (not NOS as they are slightly different) plastic inner fenders are unobtainable for the most part and even if you do find a set they will crack instantly. Also, the repops are not even close Soooooo, for that reason I chose to use a set of metal inner fenders. It will haunt me till the day I die but not much I can do about it unless I find a set of original assembly line plastic inners.

We then lightly glue the flaps to the inner fenders. This will hold them in place while you drill the staple holes. Which side of the fender depends on plant and timing or if the guy that normally applied them that day called in sick so in my opinion there is really not a right or wrong way to do them and I usually do them based on what other cars in the time span were done. However, since 69's for the most part used plastic inner fenders it is really a moot point.

After the glue sets up we decide where to put the staples. Usually around 6-8 and we use a staple as a template marking the flap as to where to drill the holes.
Once the holes are all drilled we use a special hardened pointed pliers I found at Hobby Lobby to bend the staples over. It really helps if you put a block of wood on the backside and clamp the staple head so it cannot move while you roll the staples. Using this method gives you a rolled staple instead of a flattened over look which would not be correct.

There you have it. The blue plastic is there to protect the inner fender during this process.
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  #482  
Old 03-12-2019, 06:12 PM
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Hi Rick

You are killing this resto, dead nuts accurate.

I have to say I am pretty proud of Nick Morocco and I as we did my inner fenders in a similar fashion. Usually my methods were a little goofy but we got that one right.

I think we can find a beautiful grandma Malibu with perfect inner fenders, steal the IF’s and throw the car away. I know how much you spent on shocks so this would not be out of line. I will buy the grandma Malibu with those steel IF’s for scrap weight.

I bet you a Tim Hortons coffee the good 1969 Chevelle guys on here will come up with a plastic set by sun up!!!

PS: Did your original inner fender have made in a Canada on it?

Ryan W31
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  #483  
Old 03-12-2019, 06:30 PM
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If I can come up with a mint set, I will buy them depending on where they are at as shipping is another huge issue. Not price wise but damage wise.

I do not believe my inner fender (only one) had Made In Canada on them.
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  #484  
Old 03-13-2019, 10:49 PM
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Last night was carpet installation night. We started by laying in the sound deadener which is nowhere near correct but the best that is available. I have never come across anything better than this and cannot bring myself to use Dynamat in a restoration. Perfect for a resto mod but just not correct here.

Carpeting is cut in differently depending on what type of seats, console or non console and type of transmission. Each is unique to the other. Over the years I have photo documented and/or saved carpeting out of survivors to insure that we cut the carpet exactly how it was installed. This requires having some of the carpet seamed in some cases as well as edging sewn on the carpet between the seats. The seats were NEVER bolted to the top of the carpet and instead flaps were cut to hide the track and feet which mounted directly to the floor. I laid pieces of paper under the flap so you can see how they were cut for the seat track corners.

Tomorrow I remove the carpet and bring it in to carpet store and have the edging applied to the portion that goes over the transmission tunnel between the seats. Since this is a non console car that area is exposed and can be seen and therefore will be edged just like the factory. I will also apply the original Magee carpet manufacturers tag back to the bottom of the carpet on both sides. Once completed we will install it back into the car and cut the hole for the shifter boot and plate and finish off that part of the interior. Then it is onto the glass and door hardware.
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  #485  
Old 03-13-2019, 10:58 PM
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Unlike the 70 Chevelles, the 69's (as well as I believe all previous years) use lots of rivets to hold the grille and brackets onto the nose of the car. Our 69 used a total of 9 rivets. Fortunately the rivets can be found at most hardware stores. Ours came from Ace hardware. Unfortunately they require a special tool to roll the edges of the rivet. In some cases like the upper brackets you cannot even get a tool in that area. I believe GM likely used a hand held crimping type rivet tool as opposed to one that required impacting it. We customized a tool to use on the upper rivets and I will show that later. For the bottom and center rivets we used a conventional peening tool. The one pictured is mounting the center of the bumper filler to the vertical hood latch support. Notice the small photo of the rivet tool in the last photo.
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  #486  
Old 03-13-2019, 11:08 PM
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Speaking of the nose, I also had Joe apply the 427 in grease pencil prior to the paint application. Our front end was missing but thanks to (I believe Phil Woj) and others, it seems that most COPO's had the 427 written on the top of the bumper divider so we replicated that on ours.
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  #487  
Old 03-14-2019, 12:26 AM
SS69chevelle SS69chevelle is offline
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Rick that is interesting. my red 69 SS with a L35 and three speed had SS in the same spot on the filler panel. pic shows what mine looked like during disassembly.
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  #488  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:34 PM
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We have been working hard the last couple of nights but doesn't seem like we accomplished much. Down to the nickel and dime stuff. Carpet is off being finish edged and still working on locating last minute parts though many members have been very helpful with some of them.

We reinstalled the NOS Yenko emblems and 427 emblems using original style barrel nuts. That was nerve racking but it all worked out well. I used reproduction 427 emblems as 2 of my 3 were broken from the accident.

Couple things in the trunk. Our original trunk lock retainer screw as well as the ground for the rear harness used a flat head Phillips screw. I hate them and rarely see them used but that is what came on the car so that is what is going back on. (original and after restoration photos)

The wiring harness retainer clips were red oxide primered so they were restored and replaced. (original and after restoration photos)
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Last edited by SS427; 03-16-2019 at 04:10 PM.
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  #489  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:39 PM
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We restored an original radiator cap but it will not hold pressure so it will have to be show only usage.

Some shots of the almost finished engine compartment and carb.

As I have said many times throughout this thread, if anyone sees something that does not look right please bring it to my attention. I will either learn from mistakes or explain why what was done was done for that reason. If anyone knows what ink stampings were used on the 4346 carb or has photos that would be greatly appreciated. I have all the LS6 information but no clue on these carbs.

We have yet to put the fuel line on. After trying 3 different vendors we were going to make out own and Mike Angelo and Grady Burch told me to try Fine Lines. It came in yesterday and is as close as I have tried and will require only minor bending to match the original. Thanks Mike!
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Last edited by SS427; 03-15-2019 at 10:47 PM.
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  #490  
Old 03-16-2019, 06:27 PM
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This thread is the greatest restoration info in the history of A bodies. Rick, you have skill son..
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