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  #21  
Old 11-30-2018, 05:34 PM
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Wow Rick. These are some excellent details. Thanks for sharing. I was going to ask if the calipers had an orange mark on them. You just answered that question.

You've got some great momentum going on this project, keep up the good work. She's going to be a beauty!

Phil Woj.
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  #22  
Old 11-30-2018, 05:50 PM
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Thanks for sharing the progress, looking forward to seeing more.
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  #23  
Old 11-30-2018, 06:59 PM
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While Jamie, Joe and crew focused on the body, we focused on locating parts, researching what we had and how it was originally and then restoring those parts to the finest of details. While I did much of the restoration work with a little help from my tech (doesnít work nights or weekends), Annie helped with locating parts, tracking orders, keeping a log of all things in a nicely laid out binder and working hands on in the shop whenever possible. She was adamant about taking part in the restoration so I am seeing to it that she gets her wish. Many times she has brought me dinner to the shop and after eating we both go back to work.

The drum brakes still had part of the part code decal though not enough left to read what it was so hopefully someone here can help out. The car had its original wheel cylinders still on it and were 15/16" NOT 7/8" which really confused me as 1970 used the smaller wheel cylinders so I assumed the 69's did as well. It has a BA master cylinder on it. Note the black paint on the face of the drum and two separate places where there was a decal.

I was able to retain all the brake hardware other than the rear shoes. All springs, wheel cylinders, e-brake hardware, drums, rotors, backing plates, etc so very happy to have all the original hardware still remaining on the car.
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Last edited by SS427; 01-12-2019 at 10:21 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:07 PM
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Hey Rick. 15/16 vs 7/8 must be cuz you mostly restore them '70 'velles. 15/16" wheel cylinder bore is correct for a '69 Chevelle!!!
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  #25  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:09 PM
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Finished front suspension and ready to install. Original brake lines were not good enough to save. Interesting with blue markings as I have only encountered orange in the past. I am now in the process of having new stamps made as my 70 stuff is different. Darn! Annie doing her part helping with the restoration.

Note the orange paint on the rear differential brake lines I spoke of earlier. This was located just at the t-block above the diff.

The pinion snubber bracket was natural on this car. I have seen that before but more often than not they are dipped in black lacquer. I restored this in its original natural finish. Thanks to some members here I was able to procure a few NOS pinion snubbers, one of which was used on this car.

All of the original body mounts were reusable and were restored and will be reinstalled.
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Last edited by SS427; 01-12-2019 at 10:56 PM.
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  #26  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mockingbird812 View Post
Hey Rick. 15/16 vs 7/8 must be cuz you mostly restore them '70 'velles. 15/16" wheel cylinder bore is correct for a '69 Chevelle!!!
Thanks for that information. I have torn a few apart and do not remember seeing that before. Well than I am very glad these were good enough to restore and I did not replace them with the wrong ones.
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Last edited by SS427; 11-30-2018 at 11:56 PM.
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  #27  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:21 PM
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The next phase was to install all the front suspension back onto the car. The front suspension was restored exactly how GM built it. No paint on ANY of the pieces except for the ends of the center link to try and imitate the process done at Chevrolet. All springs, calipers, tie rods, sleeves, backing plates, spindles, etc are all in their natural state.

I really hated using the reproduction brake and fuel lines as they have gone to a coated brake line from all of the suppliers I am aware of (China) and do not resemble the originals anymore. If you try and get rid of the coated all is does is polish them which is also incorrect.

All painted inspection marks were replicated exactly how they were found regardless of how ugly. None were added for fun.
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Last edited by SS427; 01-12-2019 at 11:01 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:30 PM
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By the way and I should add, if anyone who knows these cars sees something missing or done incorrectly, PLEASE speak up. I am treading on new area and though similar, they are not the same as the 70 so I am looking for any and all input.
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Last edited by SS427; 01-12-2019 at 10:57 PM.
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  #29  
Old 11-30-2018, 08:32 PM
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Great stuff Rick and Annie!
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  #30  
Old 11-30-2018, 08:45 PM
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The engine was rebuilt by our own Eric Jackson (Vintage Muscle Car Parts) who did a great job pulling 478 hp at 5500 rpm and 472 ft pounds of torque at, get this, 3500 rpm. This thing will have some power though I am told by a certain young lady that I will never find out just how much. We made absolutely no power adders on this engine and it was rebuilt stock. Stock bore, crank, rods, pistons, a nostalgic cam with factory specs, stock heads and intake. Only the carb and distributor was blueprinted. After completion Eric worked with "Ohio George" Montgomery and dynoed the engine. Kudos to Eric for getting this thing done and with that much power. In comparison, our LS6 454 engines (that I have rebuilt locally) are generally .040-.060 over bore and otherwise stock and pull 475-498 horse so I am very pleased with the results. Correct me on any of this information Eric if I am listing it incorrectly.

Once received back from Eric it was time to completely wash and clean the engine in preparation for paint. Believe it or not, that can be as much as 8-10 hours. Keep in mind, painting and engine is no different than painting a car but and it has to be 100% clean of any contaminants, primed and painted. Several years ago I had some NOS Chevrolet engine parts that still had orange paint on them so I had some custom mixed for all of our engines.

I first prime the engine with high temp cast iron colored paint and with the oil pan, timing cover and rear water pump cover painted with a natural steel color. I used single stage and spray it through a gun, NOT a spray can. From there with the exhaust manifolds (a donor pair) installed I spray the engine with valve covers, by-pass hose, bellhousing, flywheel inspection plate, water pump and few small items like lift hooks installed. I restore our engines with overspray in some areas and lack of thick paint in others. This comes from 35 plus years of experience and also documenting during tear down. This particular engine was very original and you could still make out how it was originally sprayed and any markings that were on it. All were duplicated.
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Last edited by SS427; 01-12-2019 at 11:18 PM.
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