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#11
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If I remember correctly JOHNZ stated that on the assembly line that in addition to the dish soap they kept the push plugs near a heat source like a lamp or something so they would stretch and go through the hole...
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#12
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Norwood Trim line guy says they used an air operated punch. Punch was a heavy suspended reciprocating two stroke punch that was suspended on a spring tether.
No lubricant was required. No heat was required. Pinch was inserted through the center hole. Line the fastener up and push the button and the weight of the tool took away the recoil. |
#13
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When I replaced the rubber ones in my car...I put the rubber in hot water to soften them up and then they were much easier to push in. And also the grease or what ever lube you may want to use will help.
That is my .002 Dave 67 Nova Boy |
#14
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Phil, that's pretty tight quarters up under the dash to install the plugs. I'm curious how a heavy suspended punch gets in there to do something like that. Did he elaborate? If you're installing them from the engine bay side of the firewall I can see something like that but inside the car does not makes sense to me.
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#15
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Quote:
Installing the insulator of one of the very first things you do to the shell before you begin reassembly and you are smart you are starting with and working with an empty Instrument Panel (dash shell). So I am trying to understand what does not make sense? Over the years I have done several of these without any issues -all by myself and while it is not particularly pleasant I had no problems. Please clairify your question and accordingly I will ask for additional information pertaining to the tools, ergonomics and the ODS specification for this element performed at Norwood Fisher Body. |
#16
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Phil, I will send you a PM as maybe I'm not envisioning the process correctly. Thanks.
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#17
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Aside from Jon's question.... the reason I asked about the process used was the issues with trim fitment on restoration work.
The initial reply provided was "haven't you fella's been bitching about needing to slam doors on cars for years all due to hard reproduction weatherstripping? "My Kid complains all the time on his 57 chevy and I tell him to go find NOS GM". We both laughed for a minute but that's how the conversation started. |
#18
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Jon, Excellent point. A couple of pictures are helpful for others who may have the same kind of questions concerning the typical tool arrangements within Fisher Body. Suspended air operated tool showing air hose held in hand and the typical hanging tool in position and ready to work next to the moving body truck. |
#19
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When installing our nos insulation pad purchased in 1979 I used the original plugs or several of them and I did puncture one thru using a Phillips screwdriver. As aforementioned it’s much better imo to use a tool blunted at the end and I like using Dawn for a little lubricant.
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68,69&2015 Z/28's 69 L78 Nova Purchased new 32k miles 69 Restored Nova L34 Father/Son Few Corvettes Our 68 Z/28 Build thread- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584 |
#20
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Here is a photo of the same element of assembly in Gen 3 production. The worker had to momentarily lay down to get the fasteners installed.
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