Aluminum or steel driveshaft ?
 

Now that Freddie has made sense of my broken tailhousing, I'm wondering which material for a new driveshaft. The engine is a 496 capable of 600 hp/torque. That seems to be the area where certain things get more expensive. Looking for recommendations of material and known, reliable, sources to order from.

Thanks !

I'm using a Strange steel shaft in my car. I used several Inland Empire Driveline shafts in customer's cars over the years. Denny's and some others are nice too. Aluminum is nice, but more expensive. Go with the 1350 joints. You'll need to swap the yoke on the rear end and get a new one for the transmission, but it's worth it. Be sure that it's high speed balanced. The M20 won't hold up to that much power if you use slicks.

X2...what Freddie said

----There's a driveshaft place close to me on 26 mile about 2 miles east of 94. They do nothing but driveshafts (many very high perf cars). Can't name the place or the township, but google driveshafts and look for one in that area. I have used them on several occasions and had no complaints.....Bill S

Oh, Boy, looking at Strange wasn't a slippery slope, it was a cliff...:laugh:
Complete 3.5" driveshaft with 1350 yokes, 4.11 gears with install kit and alloy axles. I shouldn't need any more than that to have a reliable driveline assembly, but.....

I need a part time, winter job again...:tongue:

Would be best to go with someone that balances driveshafts at high rpm if car will ever be raced. If you're only going to car shows, balancing rpm doesn't really matter.

----Name of the place is CCI Driveline. Ph#586-716-1160. I know a lot of serious drag racers use them. I'm not sure but think they can high speed balance. Give em a call.....Bill S

I've used the same people as Freddie. Cannot go wrong:burnout:

:wink: Tail housing broke at Beech Bend from vibration this year.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...31449706_n.jpg

My '67 I am running a 3.5" steel driveshaft.

VRN in Lake Bluff IL makes the DS's for Strange, you could always email them for a quote.

X2 you will be taking it home in a Dixie cup . Clutch management will help but?

As far as the driveshaft the aluminum is easier to accelerate as its rotating mass, my T/S car was faster with aluminum

I have a Denny's HD steel driveshaft in my 67 Camaro and it has taken everything my 525 hp 406 has thrown at it with no problem. Lifetime warranty on U-joints as well.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c2_...iveshafts.html

I concur

Been looking into driveshafts for this and the length is an issue with critical rotational rpm. The shaft, itself, will be about 58" and at that length and a 6500 rpm speed, Denny's is the only one who will touch this. All the others drop out at about 52-4" for that rpm.

I just talked with their phone rep and I will, most likely, be ordering their 3.5" nitrous ready pro package with Mark Williams yokes on both ends. Their 4" aluminum isn't all that much more, but since I need new rear gears and stronger axles too, I'll stay with the steel. Thinking about Mark Williams for the gears and axles too. The Strange gears for street/strip warn they are susceptible to teeth breaking under heavy shock loads and not really suitable for drag racing with slicks...hmmm. I don't need to break them next, so will be talking with Mark Williams about their street/strip gears and axles soon.
Need to decide if I want to modify the axle tubes for bolt in axles first... :hmmm:

Don’t forget that MW & Strange use different pressure angles on their splines so the differential (or spool) and axles must be both from the same manufacturer.

BTW, a Carbon Fiber driveshaft is expensive but is supposed to be worth a solid tenth. You may get to a point where the car is extremely close to breaking an ET barrier and wished you’d spent a little more money!

Diff carrier is original Eaton, and no, I'm not into this seriously, just don't need to break anything else when I do play.

Breaking the tail housing off at SCR was the least expensive part to replace.

They are the strongest and have infinite shaft speed, but are not at all abrasion resistant and not recommended for street car applications for that reason.

You have to be sure that you have clearance for a larger diameter shaft. You don't want it rubbing on something like exhaust pipes or floor braces.

I doubt that you would need to go with c clip eliminators if you buy quality axles. C clip eliminators have their own set of problems when used on the street. For one thing they tend to leak oil on your brakes. Once you install c clip eliminators it's very hard to go back to original.

The nice thing about carbon is if you brake a U joint and the shaft hits the ground. It will not beat the bottom of the car up. I have a carbon shaft on a 4k lb car that makes 800 at the tires cutting a 1.39 60 with a carbon shaft.

This is just a street car with around 600hp at the motor, no need for exotic parts. Just don't want to break anything again, when I do go play.
Freddie, looks like plenty of room for the 3.5, but I'm not going any bigger. I'd like to stay at 3", but nobody wants to build a shaft 58" for 6,500 rpm. Maybe I should fib and tell them it's for 5,500.:dunno:
I had a long talk with my rear axle guy about all this last night. I told him all the options I was getting but that I thought I would just stay with the c clip and stronger axles and he agrees. He mentioned the eliminators leaking too and I don't need a new issue from "fixing" another one.
He had a 3" driveshaft made locally for his Camaro but doesn't know how high an rpm it was balanced for. I guess I could call them and see what they say.