What to look for when looking at a COPO???

[William]

If the OE VIN-stamped MN or MO engine is gone and there is no factory paperwork there isn't anything left to rule it in as a COPO. Most of the required and standard COPO equipment was also present on an L78 Camaro SS. Here is some stuff to look for:

VIN: should be an 8 cylinder [124379] Norwood build no earlier than about N578xxx. Even that is a stretch; virtually all earlier COPOs were Yenkos.

Chassis: Should have power front discs [racers took 'em out], COPO-specific 12 bolt posi BE code axle. Lots of COPOs ended up with a 9-inch or a DANA 60. I have had 2 BE axles and known of several more. They aren't that tough to "create" so that is no longer an absolute indicator. All had dual exhausts and should have the hanger plate tack-welded to the LH rear frame rail.

Body: All had the ducted hood with factory wiring and holes. Optional on SS after 1/1/69. 4-speed must have Muncie-specific speedo cable routing.

Cooling: HD radiator with 90º upper hose connection. BB specific heater.

Body tag: Most are X44, some X11. A very few early Yenkos were X66 or X22. Cannot be X33, X55, X77. Some COPOs were ordered in groups and had consecutive 'NOR' numbers on the tag. Some of the groupings are known. But that does not apply to all of them by any means [not even the 50 Gibb ZL-1s] so if is not part of a group it doesn't rule it out.

Get data, pics, post here!

[Keith Tedford]

To add to the above post, it would appear that some BL code rearends have been turned into valuable BE units by entrprising people. I'd be looking for an unrestored original car and having it done. The chances of getting a legitimate restored car are getting more remote every day. You need ALL the documentation and still have someone with knowledge to check out the car itself. Even experts get fooled so go slowly.

[Unreal]

Virtually all the COPO "indicators" can be added to any car. As William stated, the COPO and the L78 shared most of the HiPo stuff, so if the original engine is gone, it's hard to prove. If the car is unrestored, and has the "indicators" and the original cowl tag (a lot of if's) AND has X22 or X66, it would most likely NOT be a COPO. So if it has all the indicators, and X11 or more likely X44 on the tag, I'd be getting excited. I think one X22 COPO has been found, and no X66 non-Yenko COPOs found.

[elonblock]

Piggybacking on what others have said, here are some other clues you can look for:

Big block heater box cover

If the car has a tach, is it a big block tach?

Cowl induction throttle arm

Single fuel line

Big block springs in the front and rear.

Big block engine mounts

No badging holes on front fenders

Standard grill

As many have already said, there can be a lot of the COPO stuff added to a car, but not everybody does a thorough job of adding "everything". For example a friend had looked at a car advertised as a COPO. It had all the COPO indicators except someone had drilled the hole for the cowl induction wiring in a different location from the normal factory hole.

The car looked really nice, but the incorrect hole told the whole story of a clone.

And have another pair of eyeballs look at the car also. If you are fairly certain it is a COPO car then it is well worth the money to have it documented or authenticated by someone who offers these services.

Elon