Chevelle updates

[EZ Nova]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markjohnson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oh snap! I didn't realize that you had the infamous Crane #131311 camshaft in that motor. Crane really hit onto something with that great camshaft and Ive known many cars that have flown with it. One in particular was an early Camaro , crate LS6 with that exact camshaft that spit out 10.60's. </div></div>

DAMN!!


Eric, thanks for clearing that up. I see problems in your NEAR future!!!! When you switch out the heads, you might as well put the rollbar in?
Not sure about your track there, but around here I think 11.99 they are looking for them, 11.49 I think it's a MUST unless your a late model 'Vette/Viper.

Good luck. I &quot;might&quot; get around to posting my ZL-1 build. Been a couple years in the making, but I'm sure it will be worth it.

BTW, how do you like the Legend 5sp? What are they rated for? I have a Nash 4+1 for my '69 Nova I'm think about using, but not 100% on that? I haven't seen much on-line with regards to what these trans can handle? Looking for 900Hp 800lbs/ft range in a 3000lbs car for the street.

John

[VintageMusclecar]

John;

The car has EASY 11's in it now, like I said though the driver (me!) needs a LOT of practice to get it there though.

The &quot;official&quot; cut-off is supposed to be 11.49 for a rollbar (excluding some late model stuff), but often there's some discretion involved, at least on T&amp;T night. I know of two other local racers who've already been in the low 11's w/o a bar or cage and they haven't been sent packing yet.

I would be very interested in seeing your ZL1 build.

So far I'm very happy with the Legend. As I've said previously it's BIG and it's pretty heavy, and it is a little noisy when it's cold--much like an M22, but it quiets down once it's warmed up.

Is your Nash an early torque tube type?

As an aside, I made an interesting discovery with the Chevelle today, follow-up post coming in a moment....

*edit* waiting on Photobucket to do its thing with a video [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[VintageMusclecar]

FINALLY!

No WONDER I couldn't find/hit my shift points.

Click the pic:

[Postsedan]

I would think that tach can be repaired.....no need for a new one. I really like the 10 grand tach.

Dan

[VintageMusclecar]

I've lost confidence in it at this point, going to step up to a better unit (Autometer) and be done with it.

[Dicky]

Eric, please do not race below the sanctioning times
W/O a roll bar that meets requirements. Because others are getting
away with it is not a reason!!!

Dicky

[EZ Nova]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VintageMusclecar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">John;

The car has EASY 11's in it now, like I said though the driver (me!) needs a LOT of practice to get it there though.

The &quot;official&quot; cut-off is supposed to be 11.49 for a rollbar (excluding some late model stuff), but often there's some discretion involved, at least on T&amp;T night. I know of two other local racers who've already been in the low 11's w/o a bar or cage and they haven't been sent packing yet.

I would be very interested in seeing your ZL1 build.

So far I'm very happy with the Legend. As I've said previously it's BIG and it's pretty heavy, and it is a little noisy when it's cold--much like an M22, but it quiets down once it's warmed up.

Is your Nash an early torque tube type?

As an aside, I made an interesting discovery with the Chevelle today, follow-up post coming in a moment....

*edit* waiting on Photobucket to do its thing with a video [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img] </div></div>

Eric, WATCH that T&amp;T running faster! I did that with my Nova back YEARS ago (1996 maybe). Went to a T&amp;T and was still 1/8 miling the car due to no rollbar. Well to other cars pitted by me were UNDER the 11.49. One was 11.20's and the other went 10.80's, like 3/4 passes each. So I went the full 1/4. The only time I did that with that combo, 1 1/4 pass. Went 10.47. Guy came over like nothing saying nice car, how fast what's done etc etc. Well he was THE track guy and promptly told me I was done for the day! I told him it must be a mistake as the cars not that fast. I want and asked for 1 more run, out the back door just to see that it wasn't that fast (lol I knew it was a mid 10 car). I wanted to try the NOS on the last hit, but wasn't allowed.

My Nash is set-up as torsion tube at this time. But I also have a whole gear set and tube to make a NON torsion tube trans as well.

My '69 Nova that the ZL_1 is going in with the Nash is a FULL 10 point, 8.50 certified car now. Car will look &quot;mostly&quot; stock. Will have headers, shifter, rollbar. I'm thinking of keeping the 15X8 rallys with a 275 Dr PRO tire. Looking for low low 9's or maybe an 8 with &quot;198&quot; intake on too.

Just a mild little streetcar! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

[VintageMusclecar]

Just had the Chevelle weighed at the local grain elevator--scales are accurate within 20 lbs. With me in it and ~1/2 tank of fuel, 3960 lbs.

Yep. It's a tank.

[markjohnson]

Heavy, manual transmission cars are the most destructive force known to mankind!

[VintageMusclecar]

(Also posted on Facebook, please forgive the redundancy, don't know if anyone here reads my posts there or not)

I decided to replace the faulty Sunpro tach in the Chevelle with an Autometer unit...actually, TWO Autometer units--a conventional 5&quot; 8000 rpm monster tach (#3980) AND a combination mini tach &amp; programmable shift light (#5350).

Why 2 tachs? Several reasons;

The 3980 for general purposes--easy to read at a glance. The 5350 will be used mainly as a shift light--it can be programmed for up to 5 separate shift points including a launch rpm light. Aside from the separate shift lights, the most appealing feature of the 3980 is that it can play back up to 90 seconds of engine rpm when hooked to a conventional tach.

I ordered them in and got them on the 25th, and installed them on the 26th. The instructions were followed to the letter.

The 3980 works perfectly.

The 5350...not so much. It wouldn't go into tach mode to read rpm.

I called Autometer tech, and after verifying the wiring was hooked up correctly, the tech instructed me to return the unit to Autometer for repairs.

So I'm back to &quot;hurry up and wait&quot; mode. I'm looking forward to another track outing once I get the light back in the car.

More eventually.