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#1
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I was toying with the idea on this car. I guess my decision was based on the fact this is real original paint on this engine whereas I was just trying to make the 64 look the part. Especially with the suffix / crayon mark there, I'd hate to put any doubt in someone's mind.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to napa68 For This Useful Post: | ||
60sStuff (01-02-2022), olredalert (01-02-2022) |
#2
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It’s a valid question about a possible light squirt of orange, but I’d leave it for the next owner to decide. What you see is what it is …… more transparency, which in this day and age is paramount. Plus, it won’t ruin a sale. Chris.
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1965 GTO Unrestored Survivor 389 / 335 4 BBL. 1966 GTO Unrestored Survivor 389 / 360 Tri-Power Early (63-66) Schwinn Stingrays, all Unrestored Survivors |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 60sStuff For This Useful Post: | ||
napa68 (01-02-2022), olredalert (01-02-2022) |
#3
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Finally, an update on the 65. After a 3 week wait for the radiator from Dewitt's (which was actually closer to 8) I could get going.
With a new radiator in place, I now could fire up the car.......to only run into a couple of other Gremlins. First, with the cooling system able to be pressurized, I discovered a small coolant leak between the intake and cylinder head. Sadly, the original intake gasket had to be sacrificed. That was met with a broken intake bolt at that spot. Can you say pandora's box? Pull it down and weld a nut to the remaining portion of the bolt and BAM......out it comes! ![]() ![]() ![]() A new intake gasket, and reassemble. On the bright side, it allowed me to do a much better job of cleaning the intake manifold. ![]() The second gremlin......the carb. The idle screws were literally unresponsive, in addition to a nice assortment of leaks. Soooooo........off to Eric Jackson @ Vintage Musclecar for some love. Eric found the primary metering block to be out .027 and the secondary .020. A few other less significant issues as well. If all works out, I should have the carb back late this week. The tires were a bit crusty to say the least........had to lube the beads (after they were broken) in order the get them off of the wheels. ![]() I'm sure some of know the drill of skinny bias plys.......not fun to get the bead seated. So ratchet straps and the bead blaster. You'd probably witness something similar when a person throws a football in by the monkey's at the zoo ![]() ![]() |
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to napa68 For This Useful Post: | ||
60sStuff (02-06-2022), 69M22Z (01-24-2022), dykstra (01-24-2022), olredalert (01-24-2022), Pat C (01-24-2022), PeteLeathersac (01-24-2022), RPOLS3 (01-26-2022), Xplantdad (01-24-2022) |
#4
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Looking great, Tim. You're lucky the intake bolt snapped at the head and you could weld a nut on. My usual luck is to have the bolt snap flush with the deck...
![]() Surprised you couldn't get the tire to inflate with just the bead blaster. I've used mine a lot when I had the Pete and it would always expand the sidewalls on those 24.5 tires. I USED to use ether until I lost my eyebrows enough times... ever read Patrick McManus ?...Poof, no Eyebrows.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
The Following User Says Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
napa68 (01-24-2022) |
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